This tour almost replicates my first big tour, the Red Dot Tour in early 2002 but this time I’d have Chanthim come along for the ride and this time, shifting focus from the ancient temples to more contemporary Buddhist wonders. To see all the sites visited on both tours and other shorter trips see the big map here.
We’d spend some 11 days from Aug 16 – 26, 2023 on this loop around the Tonle Sap covering some 1500km, as usual, on our trusty little Hondas’. Things have changed a lot this time around, Cambodia’s road network is improving all the time and the redevelopment of Road 5 is nearly complete making the journey quite easy going. There’s also a nice new road along the Mekong in Srei Santhor making that journey quite easy now too, albeit into an area that defies time and space, I’ll get to that later.
Day 1 – Siem Reap to Sisophon
Our first stop would be Phnom Lieb, just south of Road 6 in Preah Netr Preah District of Banteay Meanchey Province. There are a trio of small mountains here and the northernmost, Phnom Lieb, features ancient temple remnants from two different eras, the 8th and 10th century on its lower peak and a contemporary shrine and lookout on its upper peak. The middle mountain is reported to feature a temple but we did not discover that one, and on the third mountain is Wat Trolouk, featuring a contemporary pagoda and a collection of ancient temple remnants. The Halo team were demining the area so, naturally, we didn’t go exploring much further than the pagoda (note that was the time of visiting in late 2023, it’s now March 2024 as I write this and it may be all clear now, or not, just ask around the pagoda before wandering off into the never never).
We dropped by the Phum Snay/Tepkaosa Snay site but the small museum there is locked and apparently the key now resides with the Ministry of Culture (?). Regardless, our next stop, the Banteay Meanchey Museum in Sisophon has a superb little exhibition on that site and other pre-historic sites along with wonderful staff, who work hard on the research, cataloguing, and preservation of important ancient ceramics and artifacts.
We’d go for a look around Wat Kirichum Chamkar Khnar and Wat Phnom Svay where there are some nice views from the mountaintop, then Wat Preah Ponlea and Wat Sama Thiphal, all in the Sisophon city area. We’d visit the local Honda shop and have the front wheel bearing for Chanthim’s bike replaced, and an oil change for both, the total was not more than $15, it really is incredible how affordable dealer servicing is. That night we’d stay at the Pyramid Hotel which is where I’ve stayed on the last four visits through here and never had any complaints.
Day 2 – Sisophon to Battambang
The next day, we’d head south along the beautiful sealed road from Sisophon to Battambang and stop by as many pagodas as we could which is tedious, but in many cases quite rewarding. Some highlights are Wat Koh and Wat Luong in Mongkol Borei and a little further south is Wat Po Rieng which is perhaps Cambodia’s quirkiest contemporary pagoda. Wat Chroy Mates is one of the older pagodas in the area, getting close to 80-90 years old and nearby is Wat Sovan Bopharam Thmor Koul which retains several pink sandstone plinths from an ancient temple along with featuring a unique porched entrance with a 3D grand Buddha.
Sisophon to Battambang is just over an hour’s travel, although, we’d spend around 3/4 of the day slowly visiting sites along the way and then stay the night in Battambang at the Sky Palace Boutique which is the same place I’ve stayed at on numerous visits over the past three years and never had any reason to complain.
Day 3 – Battambang – Pagodas and the Provincial Museum
There are several ancient temples surrounding Battambang and we’d covered those on prior trips and when I lived in the wonderful city for several months, so, we’d stick to the pagoda trail. We’d head north of the city center following the beautiful Sangker River on either side with mostly via comfortable sealed roads and the occasional dirt road but all easygoing. It’s quite peaceful with lots of natural scenery and village life going on, perfect for those who like slow tourism. See the Battambang Pagoda Trail for our coverage of all the pagodas.
After lunch we’d head to the Battambang Provincial Museum, still regarded by some as the second most important museum. I can see why, it houses a unique collection of artifacts that covers the pre-historic period, pre-Angkorian, Angkorian, and post-Angkorian through to the modern era.
Battambang has a quite unique heritage, retaining beautiful temple sites from the Angkorian era along with heritage from the Lord Govenor era and colonial era. You can easily spend a week here exploring and relaxing in a very peaceful part of Cambodia that also offers the nation’s best cuisine thanks to Khmer heritage and also its strong Chinese heritage.
Day 4 – Battambang to La’ang Spean
In the morning we’d check out some more pagodas south of the city along the Sangker River inc. Wat Buon Muk and this time I’d get a flat tire and enjoy a nice long walk with my moto.. That fixed we’d go on to Wat Kampong Pil, Wat Kampong Seima, Wat Ta Mem which has beautiful old entrance gates that are currently being restored, and then the charming Kor village and Wat Kor. This is another peaceful village trail and quite enjoyable (excluding flat tyres).
After some lunch, we’d head out of BB via Wat Roka and then take a good dirt road down to Wat Ang Po and check out what appears to be an old banteay (citadel/fortress/stockyard). No one there on the day was too sure about its history, but it was a nice ride there with nice views over to Wat Phnom Sampov.
The next stop was a puncture repair, Chanthims turn this time, and then onwards to Laang Spean, the otherworldly scenic karst mountain that is home to one of Southeast Asia’s most important pre-historic sites.
Considering how close it is, we decided to head from there along the perfect stretch of sealed road to Pailin, just in time for sunset. And, what a beautiful place Pailin is with lush landscapes and scenic rolling hills. The only stops here for us were Wat Kong Kang and Wat Phnom Yat, apparently there are waterfalls and other sights to explore but we’ll leave that for another day. That night we stayed at Meas Sorphea Hotel which was fine and peaceful.
Day 5 – Pailin to back to BB
The next morning it was back on the bikes and back to Battambang stopping by Wat Kiri Botorkaram, Wat Beng Ompel, Wat Phnom Andoeuk, Wat Moni Reaksmey & Crocodile Mountain Cave which is kinda cool and has nice views from up top. Then a quick look to see how the Buddha is progressing at Wat Phnom Sampov and it seems to be getting closer.
Continuing east out of Battambang city along Road 5 which is easy going now that road upgrades are almost complete, we’d stop by Wat Koh Keo which is yet another of BB’s older pagodas. Continuing we’d stop by Wat Panha and Wat Kampong Preah (Battambang) which is another of the older pagodas, then Wat Po Lanka and check out the ostriches, and Wat Svay Bopha which is characterful and numerous other pagodas. We didn’t stop at the Bakan and Don An Temple as we’d covered those on a previous trip. As we reached Pursat we’d stop and check out the gates to the old palace of King Sisowath Monivong.
That night we’d stay at Phnom Pech Hotel which was simple and no fuss.
Day 6 – Pursat
Pursat is a wonderful place, we have been a couple of times beforehand exploring Phnom Neang Kang Buddha Nirvava, Phnom Kachchot Borey, and Phnum Kuk on the many mountains tour. This time we’d explore the Pursat Provincial Museum and surrounding pagodas including Wat Preah Theat and its curious ancient temple remains, Wat Koh Chum, Wat Keo Vichey, Wat Banteay Dei, Wat Maniratanaram an amazing new stupa that is now completed, Wat Sbov Rik, Wat Phnom Baktra and Wat Phnom Borvong.
Day 7 Pursat to Oudong
The next day we’d continue along the wonderful new Road 5 and call in on Kampong Luong Floating Village which is perhaps still everyone’s favourite of all the floating villages and also the one with the best value boat tours; then, Wat Chambok Rangsei, Wat Chantmony, Wat Yukunthor, get some fresh photos of Wat Kampong Preah and then keep on towards Longvek.
Our next stop would be Wat Kampong Tralach Leu, a wonderful old pagoda, one of the oldest, featuring beautiful murals. From there we’d head down to Tuol Bayok in Longvek and the surrounding sites in the ancient palace area of Longvek, somewhere we’d return to again on a later trip in Feb 2024 as our trip this time was cut short by downpours making for a fun exit 🙂
We’d stay the night at Khai Fong Guesthouse which is modern and clean.
Day 8 Oudong to Phnom Penh
Next day we’d go exploring Oudong Mountain, Wat Chey Oudom, Wat Arey Kasap, Wat Preah Vihear Leu and then Wat Veang Chas, Wat Prang, and Wat Kampong Luong.
From Kampong Luong it was an easy ride into Phnom Penh and then to the Royal Palace for a wander around, and it looks more beautiful than ever albeit still with work underway in the Napoleon Pavillion and the Throne Hall at the time.
After that, we’d finish early and stay the night at HM Grand Central Hotel, which is my regular choice in Phnom Penh. A little more expensive than I’d normally look for, but amazing value, a great location, and great service.
Day 9 – Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham
From PP we’d head north on Road 5 and then Road 6 to Phum Chealea and Kuk Temple but sadly it is inside an army barracks. The soldiers were kind enough and chatted for a while but under no circumstance could we enter unless we had a letter from the provincial authorities. They said the temple is only partially above ground but cared for.
There are some photos of this site on the CISARK website under site #114. A sole partially standing brick temple.
We’d head back and follow the west bank of the Mekong and head to Kang Meas. This stretch of road is quite charming, with the river on one side and lots of traditional wooden houses on the other and numerous interesting pagodas. visiting Wat Serey Mongkul, Wat Keo Moni Choti, Wat Peam Mongkul, Wat Roka Kaong, Wat Chetpon, Wat Chas (Kang Tanoeng),
A little further is Wat Rok Ar which has a new pagoda under construction with the older one having some old-world charm and a little further along is Wat Prek Liv which is a beautiful (newish) pagoda where some old carved wooden pediments are stored and a fragment of a stone Buddha.
Continuing along the river we’d stop by several more pagodas (i haven’t added them to the website as yet, but some have stupa and sema of interest) and score another puncture and replacing the tyre and tube this time, getting caught in another downpour, and finally catching the ferry across to the east side of the Mekong and Srei Santhor.
On the other side is a pagoda I have longed to go see, Wat Svay Sach Phnom (Wat Amporvanoram) which is now well over 100 years old and restored in recent times. It features beautiful artwork around its inner walls and panelled eaves, gold stencilled and lacquered wooden pillars, and a grand Buddha to name some highlights.
We were quite fortunate to find the pagoda open, apparently, it rarely is and we are very thankful to the achar there for explaining much about the site and sparing his time for us.
By the time we got back on the road, we’d missed the ferry going back to the other side and had but one option to follow the east bank road all the way to Kampong Cham which adds almost an hour to the journey. We’d end up riding most of the way in the dark, which I’m not so much a fan of due to the crappy headlights on Honda Waves, but luckily the road is good all the way with one shortcut that Chanthim discovered just before Wat Chotanaram, taking a ferry across the creek instead going all the way around.
We’d stay the night at Di DOK Guesthouse where we always stay, which is simple and affordable.
Day 10 – Kampong Cham to Kampong Thom
The Kampong Cham Museum was a highlight of the trip, featuring a small but interesting collection from a diverse array of eras. Some of the pieces are quite unique, many with inscriptions, and even some fascinating silver items carefully kept under lock and key.
From there we’d head to Wat Sopheas where the village is getting new roads which is always nice to see. The monastery here houses a collection of remains from a 7th-century temple including lintels, plinths, a lion’s head, and an inscribed stele.
That night we’d make it to Kampong Thom and stay at the Ban Houn Guesthouse which is our usual place to stay.
Day 11 – Kampong Thom and return to Siem Reap
On the way back from Kampong Thom we’d stop by Prasat Andet hoping to catch some nice light but didn’t, and that was it, a straight ride back to Siem Reap which from Kampong Thom takes around 3hrs or a bit more with a couple of stops along the way.