Head in any direction from Siem Reap and you are sure to find ancient remains in your travels, so, how about an easy road trip talking in ancient bridges and a few unusual ancient temples?
The RN6, or Highway 6, has just that, and to boot it has one the largest and well preserved of the ancient bridges on its route, the spectacular Spean Preah Toes.
In the ’30s when the French began developing the region, they chose to lay the highway over part of what was the ancient royal road that led to Prasat Andet, a route which was mirrored in part by a route that led even further to Sambor Prei Kuk. That modern highway has been upgraded over the years and it gives us a long route to explore that is over 1000 years old with ancient bridges and temple sites.
The ancient royal road network of the Khmer Empire was expansive, some stating that it covered 1000 km, centered on Angkor, and headed southeast to Prasat Andet and Sambor Prei Kuk, east to Beng Mealea and Beng Mealea to Preah Khan of Kampong Svay, northeast from Beng Mealea to Koh Ker and Wat Phu, northwest to Phimai, and southwest to Sdok Kak Thom.
For today, let’s take the section from Angkor to Kampong Kdei. There are many ancient sites along this route, for example, see the map of ancient sites along the RN6 to get an idea. Even just from Angkor to Kampong Kdei, it crosses four districts and twelve communes and by taking roads north and south off the RN6 route there are hundreds of sites! Some are not more than a mound where a temple once existed, some are partly standing while not yet cleared for visitors, and some are now part of contemporary pagoda/monastery complexes.
For this route, let’s close stay on the highway, for the most part, making this an easy tour and OK for any season (except Bak Roung & Don Mae Temples which are best visited in the dry months).
If you have an Angkor Pass you can start this trip by taking in Lolei Temple, Preah Ko, and Prasat Bakong or otherwise head straight out the RN6 to spot the first site, an ancient bridge, Spean O Chen Chien, and from there all the way to Kampong Kdei and the spectacular Spean Preah Toes.
Map
The Sites
Spean O Chen Chien
Partially buried remains of a laterite bridge with 16 arches. It is/was 45 m long, 10 m wide, and 3.5 m high.
Spean Toch
Partially buried laterite bridge that has had some excavation work.
Spean Thma Bay Kriem
Laterite bridge with 5 arches reported as measuring 12 m long, 7.7 m wide and 2.6 m high. Gallery
Prasat Banteay Srei of Damdek
A small but very charming site located in Damdek to the west of Siem Reap and not to be confused with the larger and more famous Banteay Srei located north of Siem Reap. It is easy to reach and is located within the pagoda grounds.
Preah Trapeang
A contemporary monastery that is built atop an ancient site. It features a moat and basin in the east. Around the eastern side, you can see many sandstone remains and around the base of the pagoda itself you can see molded laterite. Take the road heading east from the nearby Banteay Srei site.
Spean Thma
A laterite bridge, also known as Spean Boeung Ampil, with 5 arches measuring 17.5 m long, 7.8 m wide, and 2.5 m high.
Vat Prasat Monisomsan
Contemporary pagoda built on an ancient site. The contemporary pagoda, albeit showing some age, is quite beautiful and has its own interesting style compared to those in the area. Remains of the ancient site can be seen on the eastern side including laterite, brick rubble, sandstone plinths, and a small piece of a large-diameter colonette.
Prasat Don Mae
Also known as Prasat Krovil, a laterite tower with a large basin in the east. A colonette piece and sandstone plinths can be seen. The site can be reached from the north, east and south (a dirt road off the RN6 and follow a narrow trail along levee banks). The eastern path can be blocked by water during the wet season and rice irrigation.
Wat Prasat/Reangsei Pagoda
Located on the site of Reangsei Pagoda, a ruinous east-facing small brick temple with inscribed sandstone doorframes (K # unknown). Several remnants are seen around the doorway including colonette and other carved pieces. There is a contemporary pagoda immediately east and a large basin.
Spean Ta Meas
A laterite bridge with 5 arches, 18.5 m long, 7.8 m wide and 2.5 m high.
Spean Phum O
Laterite bridge that is reported to measure 33 m long, 8.2 m wide and 3.2 m high. At the time of visiting, 06/21, it was a little overgrown.
Spean Thnal Dach
Laterite bridge consists of 4 arches visible but that was to include 7. It measures nearly 27 meters long, 7.5 to 8 m wide and 3 m high.
Spean Svay
Laterite bridge consists of 4 arches visible but that was to include 7. It measures 22.5 m long, 7.8 m wide, and 3.45 m high.
Prasat Bak Roung
Located northeast of Wat Khnar Thnong is Bak Roung Prasat, a single tall, square, brick tower. There is a trail leading from the monastery although it will likely be flooded during the wet season and rice field irrigation.
Spean Thma
Bridge laterite compound 7 arches measuring 22.1 m long, 6.4 m wide and 3.5 m high.
Spean Khpuos
Laterite bridge with 5 arches, 16 m long, 7 wide and 2 high
Spean Praptos
A sight not to be missed, also known as Preah Toes Bridge, or Spean Kampong Kdei, the ancient laterite bridge is 86 m long and 14 m wide with a sandstone balustrade, and 21 arches. It is believed to have been built in the 12th century during the reign of King Jayavarman VII and is one of the largest ancient bridges along the ancient Royal Road.
Update 2023: From Kampong Kdei, if you still have time, you can head south and visit the beautiful villages of Pring and Anlong Samnar that preserve traditional wooden homes along with some very beautiful pagodas including Wat Chi Kreang, Wat Sleng (Chi Kreang), Wat Kandal, Wat Anlong Samnor, and Wat Lobeuk.
If you are up for a larger journey you can keep heading east along the RN6 and explore Kampong Thom, or head north and explore Khvav Commune.
More
- The Bridges That Built an Empire – more Angkorian-era bridges
- The Ancient Way: Angkor to Beng Mealea – another section of the ancient Royal Road
- The Ancient Way: Beng Mealea to Preah Khan – another section of the ancient Royal Road
- Siem Reap Province – more ancient sites and attractions