On this trip, together with Chanthim, we’d travel by trusty Honda power once again and cover several temples in the heartland of Preah Vihear that I have been waiting to visit for a long time, namely Prasat Sandak and Prasat Chin Srom. We’d also visit the incredible Phnom Tbeng and Wat Tangyu plus several pagodas and lots of interesting smaller ancient sites on the northeast side of Svay Leu district in Siem Reap. This trip was from 28/12/22 – 04/01/23.
First, I’d head from Siem Reap to Kampong Thom, meet up with Chanthim and then head to Preah Vihear city stopping by pagodas along the way. In PV we checked out Wat Chey Proek Temple where there are the remains of an ancient site and big plans afoot for the new pagoda. We also dropped by the Ministry of Culture office and met a lovely guy there, unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photos but they do hold some ancient temple remains there.
Next day, after staying at Ly Hout guesthouse, we’d check out some of the pagodas around Phnom Tbeng and make the climb up to Wat Tangyu. It’s a steep climb and a long walk across the plateau but a very rewarding one. I’ll return to Phnom Tbeng again soon, it’s massive and a very special place with much more to explore.
Next day, we’d head to Kulean intending to go from there to Prey Veng village, but the local achar and the monk at Wat Koulen Promh Tep suggested the trail is not so good (currently) and it’s easier to go to Koh Ker at the moment and head north which we did. We’d also stop by Wat Srayong where by chance there was one of the ancient “mile markers”, there is another of these in Kampong Kdei. The trail north from the Koh Ker group of temples to Prey Veng village is a dirt road, great in places, other places its deep loose sand, but quite OK on a Honda. We’d camp out in our hammocks here for the night and check out the ancient wonder of Prasat Chin Srom.
The next day, from Prey Veng village we’d head towards Phnom Sandak and its satellite temples of Prasat Kei and Prasat Kon Chen. The trail isn’t marked on Google Maps and is hard to pick up on satellite imagery, so we’d head west from Prasat Chin Srom and ask farmers along the way. At a cross trail, we could not decide whether to go north or keep heading west, after a bit of wait we were lucky enough to encounter a kind farmer who got us onto a trail that connected with an old US-funded track that leads through the wildlife reserve. This trail is great in parts, completely obliterated in others, and it becomes quite hard to follow, with many forks in different directions and blocked by fallen trees in parts, especially as we got closer to Prasat Kei.
Parts of the trail would only be passable by farm tractor come the wetter months, as it was, it took around 4 hours to do the 20 km distance, most of the way in second gear, occasionally in third.
Prasat Kei and Prasat Kon Chen are a little overgrown, cleared in parts, and sit directly south of Phnom Sandak Temple. Directly north of Prasat Kon Chen is wooden gazebo and the trail from here leads north up the side of the ridge, an easy but rocky and slippery underfoot trail, and then down again and into a valley and through the trees leading to the western side of Phnom Sandak.
Prasat Phnom Sandak is one of the true hidden wonders of the ancient Khmer temples, the location and the way it rises up from a valley in a mountain ridge is really something. One day, with selective tree clearing and good roads, it’s going to be an incredible and unique destination for travellers and those paying respect to their ancestors. The inscriptions here also make it one of the top three sites of the ancient empire in terms of epigraphy.
We had intended to camp here in our hammocks, but in the small village of Tel, we met the village chief who very kindly hosted us for the night. We are very thankful for their hospitality, even cooking up a meal that was the most delicious and tender pork I have ever eaten.
From Tel Village, we’d check out Wat Phnom Tel and then head to Tomnup Khnor. The road is not marked on Google Maps but it exists and it’s passable by moto in dry weather at least.
From Tomnup Khnor we’d meet the major north-south arterial which is a dirt road under renewal, maybe the plan to make it a sealed road which will surely be great for the people out that way.
On the northeastern side of Svay Leu, we’d check out Popel Temple meeting several lovely people in the village there, one who helped us find the trail to the temple and another who cooked up some tasty dinner for us. There’s also a really nice guy in the phone stall there who speaks good English. From there we’d head to Svay Leu just beating nightfall.
From Svay Leu, we’d head back along the sealed road towards Koh Ker, stopping at Trapeang Prasat, Nong Khou, Sangkae Soeng, and Neang Teav before reaching Koh Ker and quick dash into the temple group to catch a couple of images and pay respects at Prasat Prang on dusk. Staying once again at Koh Ker Heng Heng Guesthouse and the next day visited Prasat Ba Thang and then the journey back to Kampong Thom.
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