This tour is perhaps one of my favourites to date, visiting some of the more remote ancient temples in Preah Vihear province and extending upon previous trips I, II, and III. From January 25th to Feb 6th we’d cover just over 1000km on our trusty Hondas.
Heading off from Siem Reap and meeting Chanthim in Stueng Saen, we’d head north towards Preah Vihear stopping at some pagodas not yet visited including Wat Tuol Kreul, Wat Phum Srey, before heading east from Phnum Daek village to Svay Damnak village in Rovieng District.
Svay Damnak village is small, simple, with a wonderful rural charm about it, and incredibly clean. I cannot remember spotting a single piece of litter, so, praise to the local people there. We’d visit Wat Svay Damnak which features a collection of ancient relics including interesting boundary markers, and there’s a also new pagoda under construction. The people here are friendly too, and helpfully pointed us in the right direction to the next site, Svay Damnak Temple which is a fascinating and very curious terrace with Buddhist heritage.
Heading east towards Preah Khan of Kampong Svay (PKKS) along a rough trail, challenging in parts, we stopped at Preah Chhor which is another curious terrace, at this time only the outline of the small square base remains to be seen. There’s a basin nearby, and more laterite seen in places to the north (old or new?) so the area is quite interesting, and I would not be surprised if there’s a lot more to know about Romtum Commune and the wider area, especially about old roads and early Angkorian Buddhist heritage and maybe even the late-Angkor era noting the boundary markers stored at the pagoda.
After that, It was a challenging trail and slow going to reach Ta Seng village and PKKS. We met a group of farmers trying to get their tractor-trailers (Khyang) across a creek backed by a steep embankment, and they really had a struggle on their hands. It was easy for the two Hondas, they are so light they almost float. Daily life in the remote areas is something else, these great people are the pioneers, surviving on the land and making their own roads where they need. Many decades from now someone will build a fancy baray development here, unknown but underneath it, will always be the struggle of those that pioneered.
In Preah Vihear this time of year they do broad scale burn offs which is quite smart, indigenous Australians did likewise to eliminate wildfires and promote renewal. It’s a slow trail joining the two places and arriving late to Ta Seng village, we’d check in with the always kind local police and camp out at the public rest area by the baray at PKKS.
Day 2
The next day, we’d head around the third enclosure to the North Gopura, which replicates for the most part that of the south and west sides, three sandstone towers fronted by a grand Hamsa-lined causeway crossing the moat. Some of its iconography, or alterations, are interesting from a post-Angkor perspective.
From there it was around to the west gate and having visited the smaller temples out this side on a prior trip, take the trail west to the 4th and outer earthen enclosure of this massive complex. The trails are not used much, as you’d expect, and some of the older trails are lost to time, but a path can still be made out in places. After eating breakfast, we’d check out Trapeang Chambak Temple which is an incredibly fascinating site, ruinous, not easy to reach, and overgrown in part, but fascinating, with undoubtedly a huge story to tell in turn adding to the knowledge of the Angkor Wat era to which it belongs. It also has many interesting quirks, and surely even more to reveal when it’s cleared and studied in due time. Nearby we’d stumble upon the special sacred tree.
After that, it was back to hunting for a trail and in this case, there was an easy trail to the site on which we could have rode our bikes all the way along, but, I’d missed the entry which was hidden by a tree-shrouded creek crossing. There’s no internet connection out here, and satellite maps are mostly outdated and useless anyway, so I can blame that :). Anyways, we walked and walked but we made it and found Toek Khuob which is an unusual site, only partly standing, and also featuring remains of a small, square Buddhist shrine/terrace demarcated by sema of a similar style to some that are seen around Angkor Thom.
Day 3
Camping again at PKKS, the next day it was north to Tabos/Tnoat Village, another nice peaceful place, stopping by Wat Tabas and visiting Ta Bos Temple which is located near a small river and atop a hill. It’s a single shrine, built atop a pyramidic laterite terrace.
Then north to Sangkum Thmei stopping by several pagodas, Wat Boeng, Wat Srey Sranos, and Wat Samlanh with the aforementioned two housing relics from nearby ancient sites, including Buddhist boundary markers. Also noting that Wat Srey Sranos would be a quite scenic spot during the rainy season with waterfalls on offer.
Then it was onto one of my favorite sites, Trapeang Khnar Ken Seo, ever since reading about it in Bruguier’s notes years ago I’d wanted to visit this place and did so in early January 2022, but, the photos were horrible and I left feeling like there was a lot more to know. Digressing, but the simple trick with photographing temples is this, very early morning, late evening, or cloud cover. That’s it, otherwise, you get horrible contrasts of strong sunlight and tree shadows making for an unwanted tiger pattern effect but alas, it’s not so easy to always arrive on those terms. This time, I’d get there at the right time and the photos are so much better for it.
As for there being more to know, yes, this site is not only one of the most unique in the regional areas of the empire for its art, but also for its seemingly complex hydraulics, and, the wider area community of the time.
After that, it was west to Kdak village, visiting Wat Po Damnak and Kdak Temple once more. After chatting with a local, we’d camp out nearby for the night.
Day 4
The next day, we headed back east to Chhouk Temple. Then do a circle around the mysterious and enchanting Phnom Penn which I’ll come back to in future posts. Out of the village area, the trails around here are mostly used by Khyang (little Kubota tractors) with deep loose sand in places that can be difficult going by moto, but the landscape makes up for it.
There are two more temples near here, Khnar Makhop Temple and Kon Ko Temple. I visited Khnar Makhop last year but did not find Kon Ko, with Chanthim’s help and some directions from locals, we found it. It’s an interesting site built atop a large sandstone rise that was also quarried for its construction.
Day 5
From there, we’d head to the main sealed road in the north and then to Preah Vihear city, staying at Ly Hout Guesthouse for the night. The next day it was back on the bikes and to Tmat Paeuy village and then Changkrang village visiting Kbal Ko temple, Prasat Bei, and Wat Tmat Beauy. We especially say a big thanks to the warm-hearted landholder and locals who helped us around Kbal Ko.
Day 6
From there we’d head to Choam Khsant and stay at Lean Seav guesthouse, the next day visiting Aur Krach temple, Wat Trapeang Sangke, Thmom Peang, Siema Temple, and Prei Prasat. The villages are all quite charming although the trails offer up a bit of a challenge in places. As always, it was locals along the route who’d keep us pointing in the right direction.
Day 7
The next day, navigating the rural trails again to visit Kang Het, Prasat Svay Thom, Trapeang Anoun, Don Chroam, and Trapeang Ampil which are all clustered around 8-10km to the southeast of Choam Khsant. We especially say thanks to the farmers and villagers there at Prasat Svay Thom, they really love and respect the temple there and were kind enough to escort us around even giving us a bunch of their local bananas to enjoy along our travels.
Day 8
After staying at Lean Seav guesthouse again, it was back on the road to Robonh Village stopping by Prasat Kuk, then heading east to the Mekong River at Kampong Sralau, after getting a flat tire repaired, it was south along the Mekong to spectacular Sopheakmit Waterfall were we’d camp for the night. Good dirt roads all the way. We say thanks to the locals at a stall there who advised us on the best place to camp and introduced us to the local police officer who’d drop by later to check all was OK. I think whatever your plans, always check in with the locals first. What a beautiful and amazing natural wonder this section of the Mekong is.
Day 9
From Sopheakmit Waterfall we’d head south along a sealed section of road that offers beautiful scenes of rolling landscapes backed by a series of mountains with the occasional view of the Mekong River on the other side, stopping by at Wat Lbak Khaon. At Preah Rumkel we’d look across the water to Laos and enjoy a generous portion of Laos-style noodles at the food stalls there. If you are interested, you can also take boat tours here and a little further south there are limestone canyons lining the river that are quite scenic apparently. For us, it was back on the bikes and following the now dirt road south, and then back onto the sealed road and east to Stung Treng.
Day 10
At Stung Treng we’d visit Preah Ko, Wat Thalaborivat, Khatub (Khtop), Vihear nine flats temple (Sala Prambei Lveng), Prasat Pros, Wat Thourm Rangsey, Prasat Phnom Preah Theat, Wat Srah Kev Mouni Vann, Sesan Resort, Wat Chetiyaram, and Ba Daem temple. Note, we didn’t this time around but there are some more pagodas on the other side of the Sekong Stung Treng Bridge worth visiting too. For rest time, we stayed the night at the wonderful Four Rivers Hotel. Stung Treng is a relaxed small city with a confluence of beautiful rivers making it the sort of place you’ll say “I could live here”.
It was also time for bike repairs, such is the great deal when buying a local Honda, you get access to their dealer network, cheap servicing and repairs, with wifi and drinks while you wait. An oil change on the Honda Wave is always around $5 ($3 when they have promos), a new chain was also done, plus a new tire tube for a total of around $35 from memory including an oil change on the other bike. It’s worth mentioning, they only service and sell parts for locally sold NCX Hondas and not imports.
Day 11
From Stung Treng we’d head south along the sealed road to Sandan and then north to visit the very special village of Sambour. Along the way, we’d stop at Wat Ou Ruessei Kandal, Stung Treng O’Roesey Kandal Community-Based Eco-Tourism Resort, Wat Samithiram, Wat Tuol Trang, Wat Sre Sbov, Wat Kunthea Sokaram, and Wat Sre Treng.
The area has a long history of settlement dating back to ancient times, although no ancient temples remain standing, what is standing are the beautiful “100-Column Pagoda” and the nearby Wat Vihear Kork. These sites have an important heritage in the pre and post-Angkor period having connections with possibly three different kings/queens at least. We’d stay at Sambo Leap Guesthouse which is simple, new, and clean.
Day 12
Heading south from Sambour we’d stop at several pagodas including Wat Pothivanaram, Wat Kbal Chuor, Wat Toul Kbal Chuor Krom, and we’d been for Kratie Mekong River Dolphins last year along with Wat Phum Sambok and Phnom Sambok. At Kracheh (Kratie Town) we’d check out some more pagodas Wat Bothom Rangsei, Wat Pa Chha, Wat Orussey, Wat Honglam, Wat Krong Kracheh, Wat Rokar Kandal Chas, and Wat Rokar Kandal.
Heading south we’d visit Wat Seliaram, Wat Prek Prang, Wat Chot Vannaram which has some colonial era constructions, Wat Prek Prasop, Wat Botom Reachea which appears to have late Post-Angkor era heritage, Wat Kampong Kor, the Chroy Ampil Stele site and then the splendid Phnom Soporkaley which offers nice views out over the plains and the Mekong river.
By this time, it was quite late, and we went looking for a guesthouse but without any luck. Suddenly my lack of planning and going day by day had come to a head. Oops. We asked at the pagoda if we could set up our hammocks on their grounds which they were fine with, then a local official arrived, then the police, uh oh…… Then a lady we’d chatted with earlier come riding in and said, “I know them, they are staying with me”! It was all warm-hearted stuff, the local people were simply worried that we might be robbed in our sleep. SO, another huge thanks to the local family in Prek Svay village we stayed with, who even cooked a delicious meal for us, and thanks to the local official there who gets also high praise from people in the area for his hard work.
Day 13
The next day we’d pass on our gratitude and head south following the Mekong and stopping by the 25 pagodas along the route to Kampong Thom. The highlights of those were Preah Ang Kuhear Pagoda with its rack cavern and views over the Mekong, Wat Speu and the surrounding area, and Wat Punneray.
After that, it was a stop in Kampong Thma for the night and then back to Siem Reap stopping at a few more pagodas along the RN 6.