Battambang city, located about 160km by road to the southwest of Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, is culturally rich and charming, featuring the best food in the country, several important ancient temples, beautiful heritage pagodas, and also French colonial heritage. We’ll focus on the Buddhist pagodas today, introducing a little of their heritage and the most important sites.
Battambang has a long historical record that goes back to the archeological discoveries at Laang Spean dating back to 70,000 years before the present, several pre-Angkorian sites (1st-8th century), and Angkorian era sites (9th-15th century). The area was incredibly important during Angkorian times, as evidenced by the ancient temple sites of Prasat Baset, Wat Ek Phnom, Phnom Banan, and Prasat Snoeng East & West.
Constructions during the Post-Angkorian era, at least between the 15th century to the late 18th century, sadly, have few records bar some anecdotal reports, while a bit more is known about the pagodas that followed. Many of the Buddhist pagodas in Battambang are noted to have their origin in that period around the early 1700s, some later in the 1800s, and others through the 1900s. Many of the pagodas have been reconstructed or replaced over time with the oldest construction still seen today reported to be Wat Samrong Knong and Wat Damrei Sor at over 100 years of age.
Battambang, along with the other western & northern provinces, including Siem Reap (also see: Kampong Kdei), were under Thai rule from 1795-1907 and known as Phra Tabong, a period oft referred to as the “Lordship Era” or “Lord Governor Era”. The governors would be loyal to the Thai court, and all from one family, the Aphaiwong (Abhaiwong, or Abhaiwongse). In 1907, the Lord Govenor era ended and the western provinces were reunited with Cambodia by the French, who would hold Cambodia as a protectorate until 1895 when Cambodia gained complete independence. Interestingly, the son of the last governor, Khuang Aphaiwong, born in Battambang, would become Thailand’s prime minister in the 1940s.
What makes Battambang especially wondrous is the fact that it preserves beautiful examples of architecture from all of those periods, Angkorian, late Post-Angkorian, French Colonial period, and the modern era. All of which is easily reached by good sealed roads enjoying the laid-back urban charm of the city along the way and the occasional dirt road offering wonderfully scenic countryside views through the local villages.
Across the province, there are 385 pagodas, at least 31 of which are heritage-listed. Every established village has a pagoda, serving not only as the monastery for monks but also as the center of the local community, and often providing primary education for children of the community.
As mentioned, Wat Samrong Kong is one of the oldest pagodas in the city and also features a memorial to those who suffered at the hands of the Khmer Rouge. Wat Po Veal, a seemingly mundane-looking pagoda today, is historically significant as also being one of the earlier founded sites, housing a Pali school, and pre-the Khmer Rouge era was one of the nation’s important museums housing a collection of ancient temple relics. Wat Kamphaeng and Wat Kdol were once fortified also featuring canons, and in fact, each of the older pagodas has its own special story.
The pagodas here offer a window into the heart of the Khmer community, a journey through the 18th-19th century to the modern era, and a connection with the Buddhist Dhamma and teachings of the Buddha. It’s worth spending a little longer in the city to explore these beautiful heritage sites, especially those along the river and the must-see pagodas, based on heritage and beauty, are Wat Samrong Knong, Wat Sangke, Wat Kandal, Wat Po Veal, Wat Kan Doeng, Wat Piphithearam, Wat Keo, Wat Kamphaeng, Wat Kor, Wat Damrey Sor, Wat Soamanoas, and Wat Kdol.
Getting around the pagodas
The best way is to hire a bike, there are several shops in the central area that rent bikes, and your hotel or guesthouse will undoubtedly have some or arrange one for you. Otherwise, choose your favorite tuk-tuk and negotiate a deal for half day or full day depending on how many you’d like to see. Of course, you can also include the ancient temples at the same time, namely Prasat Baset, Wat Ek Phnom, Phnom Banan, and Prasat Snoeng East & West, and see the full map of sights in Battambang for all of those.
A great option is to go along with a local friend or hire a local guide, who can also help introduce some of the facets of local Buddhism and local culture which adds a much deeper layer of understanding. If you want to learn more about Buddhism or study meditation, see the Dhamma Latthika Vipassana Meditation Centre.
Remember when visiting the pagodas, there are some requests, one: to wear clothes that cover the knees and the elbows; 2: don’t take photos of the monks without permission; 3: no yelling, etc., and 4: take off your shoes and hat when entering any building, especially the pagoda.
Map of Battambang Pagodas
Explore More
In the superb little book, Battambang during the Time of the Lord Governor by Tauch Chhuong, research led him to conclude that there were twenty pagodas located along the Sangker River in Battambang city during the Lord Governor era. Some of which we have already mentioned in our must-visit list and a few more: Wat Khvaeng, Wat Ta Mem, Wat Kan Doeng, Wat Sampov, Wat Kamphaeng, Wat Damrey Sor, Wat Kandal, Wat Sangke, Wat Piphitthhearam, Wat Po Veal, Wat Liep, Wat Sophy, Wat Rumduol, Wat Balat, Wat Norea, Wat Kdol, Wat Samrong, Wat Phnov, Wat Kaev, including Wat Ek Phnom, Wat Kor, and Wat Sdei Sampov Meas. Also noted in the same publication is the importance of Wat Sangke during the Lord Governor Era being the governor’s choice for ceremonies and home to the province’s chief monk.
Adding to that list is Wat Kampong Siema which had a foundation in the late 1800s, Wat Phnom Sampov founded in the early 1800s, Wat Khsach Pouy which had a foundation in the early 1900s, and on the eastern side of the city, Wat Koh Keo from about the same time. Outside of the city area is Wat Chheu Khmao, accessible by river, around 50km to the northeast on the Battambang/Siem Reap border, and also Wat Banan/Wat Chas at the foothill of Phnom Banan. Wat Preaek Luong, in the central area, isn’t recorded as being a heritage pagoda (as much as I know) but it does feature a collection of laterite and sandstone masonry from an ancient temple.
Of the modern pagodas, Wat Preah Moha Kuntakod is a standout, it’s unique and looks quite wonderful when lit at night, a little east is another Buddhist site featuring a grand Buddha statue. Wat Phnom Andoeuk is also quite nice with its lovely gardens and nearby is Wat Moni Reaksmey & Crocodile Mountain Cave.
Further afield in Battambang province, in the remote areas, there are more that we are yet to explore, when we do, we’ll add them here too.
Characteristics
Wood was used extensively in construction and decorative features of the older pagodas albeit replaced by cement in later times. Wood columns decorated with stencil-cut gilded metal decoration can be seen inside Wat Kdol while intricate woodwork that creates the floral decorative elements seen on the ceilings can still be seen at some of the older pagodas. A prominent characteristic of the Battambang pagoda is the porched pediment or overhanging gable noted as muk pracherd style roof. The decorative pediments of the older pagodas are something quite special, including royal iconography of the time and depictions of characters from the Reamker (Khmer Buddhist version of the Hindu Epic, the Ramayana).
Interestingly painted murals are not as elaborate as those seen in the older pagodas of Phnom Penh and its nearby provinces. Alternatively, Battambang pagodas, while still having murals, seemingly placed more emphasis on the use of embossed plaster, used extensively on the outer walls for guardian figures and for depicting scenes from the Reamker.
Entrance gates – are also quite elaborate sometimes depicting 3D figures as seen at Wat Kor and Wat Damrei Sor.
Stupa/Chedi – there are chedi remaining from the Lord Governor Era featuring the influence of that era and some distinctly Khmer, and interesting contemporary styles too. Some are decorative or votive, some may house relics or funerary remains.
More
- More sites and attractions in Battambang
- Pagodas in Siem Reap
- Pagodas in Phnom Penh
- All the pagodas we have visited to date
- A Post-14th Century Buddhist Trail – Exploring the Wonder of the Khmer Thervadin Era
References
- Battambang During the Time of the Lord Governor, 1994, Tauch Chhoung, translated by Judy Ledgerwood, Carol Anne Mortland, H’in S’ithan
- The Evolution of Decorative Stupa in Battambang from the 19th Century to Mid-20th Century, 2022, Sirang Leng
- Wooden Architecture of Cambodia: A Disappearing Heritage, 2006, Centre for Khmer Studies ed. Francois Tainturier
- More than 31 pagodas in Battambang get heritage listing, 2022, Torn Vibol