Located about 90 km northwest of Siem Reap in Banteay Meanchey Province are the grand reservoir, Ang Trapeang Thmor, and an ancient temple atop the small mountain known as Phnom Kaun Khleng. It’s easy to reach via smooth sealed roads (at the time) for most of the way bar the section around a good dirt road that leads around the reservoir to the temple.
You can head out of Siem Reap along the National Road 6, or NR6/Road 6, towards Kralanh with lots of options for quick stops along the way, and if that interests you, I’ll list all of those below. About 15 km after Kralanh turning right onto Trapeang Thmo Lake Rd and following that to Phnom Srok.
Phnom Srok is an ancient citadel surrounded by a moat that is still functioning to this day. There is nothing much left of the ancient sites bar what remains to be seen in the corner of the school grounds where the remnants of Preah Srok/Yeay Chhab Temple can be visited.
Along the way, you’ll pass Trapeang Thmor Pagoda which is worth stopping to check out the unique sculptures and ongoing work there.
Head west out of Phnom Srok and follow the lake road all the way to the massive reservoir. Blink and you’ll miss it but there is also an ancient bridge hiding under the asphalt along the way. It is Spean Dach which is another of the many laterite bridges, this one is fascinating for two reasons, one for having/had naga end stones made of laterite and another that it is still in use and sealed over with bitumen!
Reaching the corner you’ll see a cluster of stalls selling drinks, probably snacks too, and then what looks like an ocean, the reservoir Ang Trapeang Thmor, dominating the horizon with its vast scale. The reservoir was initially created in ancient times and later expanded upon during the Khmer Rouge era and then redeveloped in 2004. It’s a protected landscape and home to a diverse range of birdlife making it a popular destination for birdwatching tours. At the southern end of the lake, there is a large loch that releases water seasonally for the farmlands below. It doesn’t look much in photos, but, when you stand in front of it, it’s really something.
Heading along the east side of the reservoir it becomes a red dirt road but in great condition at the time. It might be interesting to note there are a lot of ancient temple sites just east of this water body but sadly, none are standing today bar the one that lies ahead and over to the northwest side. Follow the road until you reach the next small village here and then turn left and follow that all the way to the school. At the back of the school, you’ll see a path that leads up to the top of the very low mountain. It might be a little overgrown but it will get you there. You’ll pass the old wooden prayer hall and then reach the ancient temple.
Not a great deal has been written about Phnom Kon Khlaeng Temple (also recorded Phnom Kaun Khleng Temple) which is a brick temple at least pre-dating the 11th century featuring a group of four brick temples with one almost entirely standing while the other three are mostly lost to time. A laterite enclosure surrounded it with remnants of a large laterite gopura seen on one side. There is another contemporary wooden prayer hall near the temple with an active Buddhist pagoda below on the east side of the mountain.
If you have time, you can head a little further west along road 6 and then south to see the ancient remains, monastery, and beautiful views on offer from Preah Netr Preah, and if you still have time on the way back to Siem Reap, and more energy, take the hike up to Phnom Kambot to the remains of a small ancient brick temple. An easy stop along the way back is Wat Khnatt featuring the remains of a 7th-century site and ornate contemporary pagoda.
Map