Cambodia: What to Know Before You Go

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Cambodia is fast becoming a hot destination not only for holiday-makers but also for long-stay expats. Long stayers can be broken into several categories including the ones unable to afford a reasonable life in their home country, the retiree with limited funds, the sexpat, the digital nomad, the volunteer, English teachers and the business savvy seeking to invest in a developing country.

Cambodia offers something for everyone but leaves it totally up to you as to whether you save yourself, make yourself or break yourself.

So, to get you rolling on the next adventure leg of your life here’s a digital starter pack of sorts, a one-page super-intro, and primer to your possible new home. Let’s start by getting our bearings.

Cambodia is located in South East Asia, sharing borders with Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand. She also features a coastline bordered by the Gulf of Thailand. The country’s capital is Phnom Penh.

 

 

The country is most well known for its star attraction being Angkor Wat, a stone temple complex built by the Khmer Empire which reigned from 802 CE (AD) to 1431 CE (AD).

 

Provinces in Cambodia

The three most popular destinations for expats and visitors are:

Phnom Penh – Featuring an international airport, the capital of Cambodia is home to over two million people and for most, it’s the gateway to Cambodia. 
Siem Reap – Featuring an international airport, Siem Reap is located in northwest Cambodia and home to the countries star attraction, the famous Angkor temple complex the large inland lake Tonle Sap. 
Sihanoukville – Sihanoukville faces the Gulf of Thailand with beaches and tropical islands offshore, it’s the beach holiday destination.

 

Other provinces and cities:

  • Banteay Meanchey – Sharing a border with Thailand it’s home to the Banteay Chhmar temple ruins
  • Battambang – Cambodia’s second largest city being home to 250,000 people and featuring well-preserved French colonial architecture along its riverside
  • Kampong Cham – Located on the Mekong River it’s the third largest city in Cambodia.
  • Kampong Chhnang – Located in the heart of Cambodia it’s a great place to take a tour of the Tonle Sap Lake.
  • Kampong Speu – natural scenic area by the Preaek Thnot River.
  • Kampong Thom – located by the Stung Saen River and home to the Sambor temple and Prei Kuk temple.
  • Kampot – bordered on one side by the Gulf of Thailand you’ll find peaceful beaches, French colonial architecture, and pre-Angkorian ruins.
  • Kandal – the capital of the province is Ta Khmau, attractions in the region include Angkor Chey pagoda and Udong which was the capital between 1618 and 1866.
  • Kep – Cambodia’s original seaside resort town and a short trip from Vietnam, the city was originally built by the French in 1908.
  • Koh Kong – A coastal province that features casinos on it’s border to Thailand and is well renowned for its natural attractions including wildlife, rivers, and waterfalls.
  • Kratie – located on the banks of the Mekong River it is also home to the Irrawaddy dolphins.
  • Mondulkiri – home to Bou Sraa waterfall. The capital city Sen Monorom is home to under 8000 people, and the area is known for its natural attraction.
  • Oddor Meanchey – shares a border with Thailand, the capital is Samraong.
  • Pailin – the former hometown of the Khmer Rouge
  • Preah Vihear – The two dusty street city of Phnom Tbeng Meanchey is the capital of this municipality and the region is home to the temple of Prasat Preah Vihear, Koh Ker which was once a capital, and the Preak Khan 12th century temple.
  • Prey Veng – agriculture district
  • Pursat – a great place to access Tonle Sap and the Cardamom Mountains.
  • Rattanakiri – home to Yeak Laom Volcano Lake.
  • Stung Treng – located by the junction of the San River and the Mekong River.
  • Svay Rieng – located by scenic marshlands and the Waiko River.
  • Takeo – believed to be the birthplace of Cambodian civilization.
  • Tbong Khmum – the province lies in the lowlands of the Mekong River.

 

Major attractions in Cambodia

  • Angkor Archeological Park & Angkor Wat (Siem Reap)
  • Royal Palace (Phnom Penh)
  • Preah Vihear Temple (Preah Vihear)
  • The southern coast inc. Sihanoukville’s beaches, Kep & Kampot
  • Elephant Valley Project (Sen Monorom)
  • Banteay Chhmar Temple (Banteay Meanchey)

Demography

The population is believed to be somewhere around 12 million. There are no reliable statistics for ethnic populations, although the Khmer population is certainly the largest. A 1993 demographic study estimated that Khmer represented 88.7 percent of the population; Vietnamese, 5.2 percent; Cham, 2.5 percent; Chinese, 1 percent; and others (Thai, Lao, and smaller minority groups in the north and northeast), 2.6 percent.

The major religion is Theravada Buddhism which is followed by approximately 95% of Cambodians.

Culture and Customs

A country with a rich history and ancient culture based in Hinduism and Buddhism. Although, it’s modern history is tainted by the coming to power of the Khmer Rouge and deeply scarred by the Cambodian Genocide that took place from 1975 until 1979.

 

Currency

There are plenty of ATM’s located in major tourist areas. Some ATM’s charge extravagant withdrawal fees (4 USD).

The official currency is the Riel, but it is used mostly only as small change (for taxi, meals, water), the US Dollar is the most commonly used and also what’s dispensed by ATM’s. Carry lots of 1 and 5 USD notes and people may not have enough to give change in Reil for larger notes. Keep notes in good condition and don’t accept torn or dodgy looking notes as no one else will.

1 USD = 4007 Riel (KHR)

 

Climate and Seasons

The climate can generally be described as tropical. As the country is affected by monsoon, it is hot and humid with an average temperature around 27.C (80.F). There are two distinct seasons: the Rainy Season and the Dry Season. However, the Dry Season is divided into two sub-seasons, cool and hot. These seasons are:

  • Dry season (cool): November-February is cool and sunny (note: cool in a relative sense).
  • Dry season (hot): March-July is sweltering and humid.
  • Rainy season: July-October has lots of rain but usually in short bursts

Transport

Inner-city transport is mostly by tuk-tuk and moto taxi, being a small city a fare to most anywhere should top out at $3. You can hail tuk-tuks quite easily and you can also use PassAPP or Grab.

Intercity transport is mostly by bus and can be booked online via bookmebus.com or camboticket.com which also offer private taxi and ferry bookings. Also, see our transport section for bus/ferry/train schedules.

 

Airlines in Cambodia

 

Airports in Cambodia

Cambodia has international airports at Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanoukville.

Direct flights connect Phnom Penh International Airport (previously Pochentong International Airport) with mainland China (Beijing, Guangzhou, Shanghai), Hong Kong, Laos (Vientiane), Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur), Singapore, South Korea (Incheon), Taiwan (Taipei), Thailand (Bangkok) and Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh City). http://www.cambodia-airports.aero

Direct flights connect Siem Reap – Angkor International Airport with mainland China (Beijing, Guangzhou, Shanghai), Laos (Pakse, Vientiane), Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur), Singapore, South Korea (Incheon, Busan), Thailand (Bangkok), Qatar (Doha) and Vietnam (Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City). http://www.rep.aero

Direct flights connect Sihanoukville with Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. http://www.kos.aero

Cambodia Airport Routes Map

 

The Top Value places to stay in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanoukville

 

These hotels were chosen based on being in a central location of usually no more than 1 KM from the city center, have excellent visitor reviews and ratings, and are amazing value.

Siem Reap City Center Hotels

 

Phnom Penh City Center Hotels

 

Sihanoukville Hotels

 

Finding Long-stay and Permanent accommodation in Cambodia

There are many different styles of accommodation ranging from luxury villas to bare basic rooms. You can choose between a standard apartment, or a serviced apartments where you get security guards, building management, may include cleaning and an all-inclusive monthly price. Costing substantially more, serviced apartments are of course more upmarket, modern, and may feature more amenities such as swimming pool.

Where to Rent?
Until you get your bearings you may choose places that are popular with expats such as, in Phnom Penh, try Wat Phnom, Boeung Keng Kang 1 (BKK1) and Sisowath Quay.

Rents in Sihanoukville are increasing fast with the influx of Chinese investment and development. Many are choosing to opt for Kep and Kampot.

Siem Reap is quite stable and most people will choose to locate within walking distance of the central pub street area.

Places to search for rentals
http://angkorrealestate.com – covers nationwide
http://realestate.com.kh – national real estate portal – private and agencies upload their own listings
http://sihanoukvilleproperty.com – realty in Sihanoukville

 

Living in Cambodia

Once you make a decision to live in Asia for an extended period you have just hit a major crossroad in your life. Truly, don’t underestimate this point, Asia can make you or break you and it’s entirely your choice.

Most of Asia is like the wild wild west and you can get anything you want for next to nothing and live any way you like. Wine, women, and song are all on tap. You can easily get your ego fluffed up by admiring locals, and slowly walk a path that leads to destruction and no one will give two shits. If you really need proof, just search through the stories about ‘sexpats’ and how they fall into miserable existences, the tragedies and even loss of life.

Fortunately, it can also make you. If you choose to learn, study the cultures and soak up the thousands of years of wisdom, seek to find your center, seek to capitalize on your opportunities and strengths, and exercise restraint, willpower, and moderation, then you have a chance or being truly rewarded. And also being able to truly help others.

Keeping fit

In Phnom Penh

FitnessOne at the Himawari Hotel: gym, swimming pool, tennis courts, outdoor jacuzzi and steam room. One month membership costs $100 – $500 for six months.
313 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh
http://himawarihotel.com

InterContinental Hotel Gym: gym, swimming pool, sauna, aerobics, yoga and pilates.  $60-80 per month
296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd, Phnom Penh

Amrita Spa at Raffles Hotel: gym, two swimming pools, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi. $70-100 per month.
92 Rukhak Vithei, off Monivong Blvd, Phnom Penh

In Sihanoukville

http://fitness-sihanoukville.com – Described as a fitness bootcamp. Located in the beach resort town of Sihanoukville, they offer accommodation, gym, coaching, yoga, rehab, boxing and much more. A 28 day package with accom, breakfast and gym/classes access from $644 for 28 days, 14 day packages also available along with daily accom.

 

In Siem Reap

The city has a lot of gyms including Golds Fitness and Angkor Interfitness being the most modern. Other gyms are Angkor Muscle Gym, SC GYM, Mr Ly Gym, Kool Apartments Gym, Any Happy Gym, Platinum Gym, along with several hotels that have small gyms.

 

Meditation Retreats in Cambodia

 

 

Hariharalaya Meditation Retreat Centre in Siem Reap – hariharalaya.com

Angkor BodhiTree in Siem Reap – angkorbodhitree.com

Cambodia Vipassana Center in Battambang – latthika.dhamma.org

Cambodia Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Meditation Center – Kandal Province –cambodiavipassanacenter.com

Angkor Zen Gardens retreat – Siem Reap – angkorzen.com

 

Cambodian Cuisine

 

 

Cambodian cuisine has a strong focus on vegetables and includes noodles, soups, grills, stir-fried, curries, salads, tropical fruits, and the staple which is rice.

Popular dishes include:

Kuy teav (meaning flat rice noodle)

Machu Kroung (soup) a healthy, fulfilling, flavorful sweet and sour soup

Kuy Teav Ko Kho (Meaning Caramelized Rice Noodles)

Mee Kiev (Meaning Dumpling noodle)

Prahok Kties (which means fermented fish)

Num Banh Chok (meaning rice noodle)

 

In the major cities, it is not difficult to find Western-style comfort foods, such as pizza, hamburgers, and fries etc.

 

Groceries

It’s nearly always better to assimilate the local lifestyle and ways, as it will be cheaper and more convenient. But, we all are all human and have hankerings for hometown foods.

Lucky Supermarkets has 4 locations in Phnom Penh and one location in Siem Reap. Offers a good range of western and Asian products. luckymarketgroup.com/stores.html

Pencil Supercenter https://www.facebook.com/Pencil.Supermarket/. Address: Street 214 (Samdach Pan), number #15, Boeung Raing Commune, Daun Penh District

Bayon Supermarket has Singaporean, Korean and Japanese items. Address: Street 114 (Jok Dimitrov), number #33-34, Monorom Commune, Prampi Makara District, Phnom Penh.

 

Typical expenses living in Cambodia

On average cost of reasonably comfortable but basic living is around 700 USD per month.

Visa costs
first initial one month $35
six-month extension: $160
twelve-month extension: $290

Rental Costs
Central studio apartment: 160 per month
Serviced studio apartment with gym/pool: 290 per month
Two bedroom apartment with shared pool/gym: 400 per month

Electricity costs
Fridge, kettle, and light A/C usage: $35 per month
TV, fridge, kettle, appliances, and A/C nightly: $45 per month
TV, fridge, kettle, appliances, and A/C on 22 deg, part day and all night: $80

Gas costs
average: $3 per month

Water Costs
average: $4 per month
drinking water: $20 per month

WiFi Costs
Open Net/Metfone fibre: $30 per month

Cell/Mobile Costs
card: $5 per month

Food and drink
Buy at the supermarket and cook yourself: $180 per month
Buy import foods from the supermarket and cook yourself: $250+ per month
Eat out every day from street stalls (3 meals + 2 coffee): $210 per month
Eat out every day from sit down restaurants with A/C (3 meals + 2 coffee): $480+ per month

Transport
Push bike: one time cost $40
Moto  – 3 rides daily: $90 per month
Tuk Tuk – 3 rides daily: $180 per month
Your own moto: one time cost: $300-2000
Fuel for your own moto: $12 per month
Oil change for moto: $6 per month

 

Visas

Single entry visa: can be obtained on arrival ($30, with one passport photograph required). It is valid for 30 days and can be extended only once, for an additional 30 days.

Business visa (Ordinary Visa): can be obtained on arrival ($35, with one passport photograph required). It can be extended a variety of ways, the most expensive being a 12-month multiple entry visa for $270. Extending this visa now requires a company letter and work permit.

E-visas: available online at evisa.mfaic.gov.kh, these cost $25, but can only be used through the airports at Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, or overland at Koh Kong, Bavet and Poipet.

 

Forums and useful websites

Khmer 440 – khmer440.com

Cambo Expats Online – cambodiaexpatsonline.com

Candy Publications – canbypublications.com updated visitor guides to key areas of Cambodia

Cambodia Visa and Work Permit Group – fb.com/groups/333901840112789/

Siem Reap Community – fb.com/groups/siemreapcommunity/

Expats and locals living in Siem Reap, Cambodia – fb.com/groups/siemreap/

Expats & Locals living in Battambang – fb.com/groups/905114012910927/

Expats and Locals Living in Sihanoukville – fb.com/groups/sihanoukvilleexpats/

Expats and Locals Living In Phnom Penh – fb.com/groups/expatsandlocalslivinginpp/

Phnom Penh & Expat Forum – fb.com/groups/phnompenhexpatforum/

 

Language

The official language of Cambodia is Khmer. There are 33 consonants and 26 vowels. “Ai” is pronounced as in Thai; “ay” as in pay; “dt” takes the t sound while “bp” takes the p sound. “Oo” is pronounced as in cook and “ao” as in Laos.

Here are some basic phrases in Khmer:

hello = joohm ree-up soo-a OR Sou sdey
how are you? = sok-sa bai jee-a tay?
goodbye = joohm ree-up lea OR lee-hai
see you again! = joo-up k’neer dee-ut!
what is your name? = laok ch’moo-ah a-vwai?
my name is = k’nyom ch’moo-ah
Yes = Baht (for men), Cha (for women)
No = Oht tey
Thank you = Ah kun
Please = suom mehta
Excuse me = sohm dtoh
Sorry = Sohm tou
How much is this? = Tah ni thliy pun mann?
Expensive = Thliy
Where is (location)? = (location), nouw ey na?
Turn left = bot dtoy ch’wayng
Turn right = bot dtoy s’dum
Go straight = dtov dtrong
Stop = Choup
Water = teuk
Help = chuy
There are some great videos on Youtube where you can learn more:

 

 

Khmer Audio Lessons:

Khmer basics with audio: wikiotics.org/km/The_survival_kit
Khmer greetings with audio: wikiotics.org/km/Greetings
Khmer numbers with audio: wikiotics.org/km/Numbers_-_1_to_10

 

Medical

International SOS medical and dental clinic

#161, St. 51 (Pasteur) Pnom Penh

+855 23 216911

Has local and foreign doctors – 24 hr emergency service.

 

Naga Healthcare International Medical Center

+855 63 761-295Naga Healthcare works in a small consulting room close to the central market.

Naga Healthcare works in a small consulting room close to the central market.

 

Royal Angkor International Hospital, National Route 6, Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea, Siem Reap

+855 63 761-888

Owned by the Bangkok Hospital Group and caters specifically to tourists. There is a fully stocked pharmacy, General surgeon, Orthopaedic surgeon, and Paediatrician.

 

Making Cambodian Freinds Online

There are the local English forums and facebook groups mentioned earlier, but if you are looking to meet girls, or for dating then you would probably try https://badoo.com/en/dating/cambodia/

 

 

Hello Angkor