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Ancient Royal Road

A map and (growing) list of ancient temples, firehouses, hospital chapels and infrastructure along the ancient “Royal Road” network of the Khmer Empire, Cambodia.

The ancient road network of the Khmer Empire was expansive, covering thousands of km’s, centred on Angkor, and headed
– Southeast Royal Road: from Angkor to Kampong Kdei, and southeast to Prasat Andet and Sambor Prei Kuk
– East Royal Road: from Angkor, east to Beng Mealea and Beng Mealea to Preah Khan of Kampong Svay
– Northeast Royal Road: northeast from Beng Mealea to Koh Ker and Wat Phu
– Northwest Royal Road: from Angkor, northwest to Phimai
– Southwest Royal Road: from Angkor, southwest to Sdok Kak Thom.

For our journeys along the ancient road and around Cambodia see Tour journals and the new book, Ancient Cambodia.

Ta Pok

Only a mound remains

Dai Prambei Temple

Russei Chhlop Temple

Remains of brick temple that likely pre-dated the 12th century at least, by noting the use of brick alone. It sits 500m north of the ancient East Road, which joined Angkor to Beng Mealea and Preah Khan of Kampong Svay, which is typically a development dated to around the 12th century in terms of its masonry … Read more

Wat Baray

Monastery built on the site of an ancient temple. Several remnants are collected on the western side of the pagoda including an ornate pediment fragment, chaitya/bollard, a very decayed lintel and other pieces. The pediment fragment is the most artistically intersting, featuring a depiction of Brahma (sadly beheaded) flanked by two “angels”. The contemporary pagoda … Read more

Phum Prasat Temple (Kampong Thom)

Also recorded as Prasat Phoum and Prasat Pagoda (on Google Maps), it is a tall rectangular brick temple of the 8th century located on the grounds of a contemporary monastery. The ancient temple was restored in 2007 and still preserves much of the beautiful artwork of that time which is attributed to “Kampong Preah style” … Read more

Spean Khmeng

Small laterite bridge. Not seen, I believe the road/path diverts around what might be the location of the bridge.

Spean Toch

A small laterite bridge with 4 arches with sandstone balustrade. It is recorded as measuring 12 m long, 8 m wide and 2.8 m high. Interestingly, it features very basic arches (post and lintel style construction) and is not typical of the beautiful corbelled arches seen on nearly all of the bridges along this route. … Read more

Ta En Temple

Prasat Ta En is a very ruinous “firehouse“, which was a common feature along the east and northwest roads of the ancient royal road network. It is believed that they were part of a larger resting place for travellers and pilgrims. It sits 60-100m north of where the ancient East Road once connected Beng Mealea to … Read more

Pram Temple (Khvav)

Another feature along the ancient royal road, Prasat Pram, was what the early French archeologists called “Temples d’étape” in simple terms, what they believed to be a temple that was part of a staging or stopping place. Other temples of this type include Prasat Toap Chey Thom, Prasat Chrei, and others, which are only found … Read more

Prasat Prang Koh Ker

One of the iconic temples of the ancient Khmer Empire, Prasat Prang is a giant seven-level stepped pyramid temple attributed to the reign of King Jayavarman IV and the 10th century. It is the highlight of the Koh Ker group of temples that was, for a brief period, the ancient capital of the empire before … Read more

Spean Dach

An ancient laterite bridge that is recorded as 89 m long. The bridge is still in use today by local traffic and has even been sealed over in bitumen while water no longer passes underneath with its arches completely buried. At the eastern end, a laterite naga end-piece still stands.

Spean Reap

Spean

Laterite blocks visible indication location of old bridge (Source: Cisark)

Kampong Kdei (Vestiges)

Ancient lions now guarding the local government office at Kampong Kdei

Spean Toch

Partially buried laterite bridge that has had some excavation work.

Spean

Concrete bridge that possible replaced a small ancient bridge (source: Cisark)

Trapeang Khnar Temple (Beng Mealea)

Located around 15km east of Beng Mealea temple and 170m or so north of the present-day road, which is also the ancient East Road that joined Angkor Beng Mealea and Preah Khan of Kampong Svay. The site may date to around the late 10th or early 11th century. At the time of visiting, early 2025, the site … Read more

Wat Preah Bat Buon Than

Contemporary monastery housing a carved rock depicting Vishnu. Near the monastery are a collection of older sema stones and sandstone remnants. On the north side of the contemporary pagoda, there are several huts, monks’ quarters, the pagoda that preceded the one in use today, and a hall surrounded by a fence, inside this is the … Read more

Kôk Trâpeang Ampil

Wat Sdaeung Chey

Kbel (N.T.)

Wat Chumnik

Wat Triel

Wat Thla

Wat Tang Kôk

Wat Trâpeang Kâk

Supheap Cheung Temple

Located in Preah Vihear province, about 15km west of Preah Khan of Kampong Svay, Prasat Supheap Cheung is recorded as a “Firehouse”, labelled as Dharmacala by early French research and later Vahnigriha according to the inscription. They were shrines added to the ancient Royal Road network around the 12-13th century during the time of Jayavarman VII, … Read more

Supheap Tbong Temple

Located in Preah Vihear province along the ancient route from Beng Mealea to Preah Khan of Kampong Svay (PKKS), Prasat Supheap Tbong is a unique temple type that was only found along the Angkor-PKKS section of the ancient Royal Road network. Early French researchers would label these sites “Temple d’etape” with the belief that they … Read more

Kôk Trâpeang Khtum Temple

Kôk Chhouk Krâhâm

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