Preah Theat Preah Srei Temple (Tbong Khmum)

Preah Theat Preah Srei is one of my favourite sites in Cambodia featuring an unusual and grand pagoda that elegantly incorporated the ruins of the ancient temple that once existed at the site. Originally the site featured a brick temple complex, which as mentioned, has been consumed into the contemporary pagoda and monastery that was built in the very late 1800s and early 1900s. Notes by A. Leclère give another date of constructions being made in the 14th century under King Preah Bat Preah Thomma Soka Réach, who he states reigned from 1373 to 1401.

Ancient remains begin on the eastern entrance to the site where, on either side of the road, you will find a large number of laterite remains. On the north side, the remains of a U-shaped building with a contemporary pagoda placed at its center which is then fronted by the remains of a long laterite structure. On the south, remains of a long laterite terrace/structure topped in recent times by a small shelter and stairs. On the layout map further below, these are R and S, with R having a pagoda at its center now. These U-shaped buildings are described in early French research as “palais” or “dwelling” but there is no certain knowledge about their original function albeit there are several of them which are tagged here.

Straight ahead, or west of the ancient remains is the monastery and pagoda (on the layout map below: A, B, C and D) which have taken place of the ancient ruins that included a brick temple and two library buildings (by some reports). In the pagoda, you can see several remnants of the ancient site including lintel and decorated door columns. The pagoda itself is quite old and quite beautiful, it’s very pleasing to see that it’s under restoration while hoping that it doesn’t lose its charming and rustic character. Sadly I could not enter at the time of visit but surely will when back that way.

Update – returning to the site in 06/22 I was able to enter the pagoda, what follows are images of the ancient columns and lintels built into the pagoda referenced as A. C and D on the layout map below.

In front of the pagoda, an old stupa can be seen and to the west and south of the pagoda some classical-style buildings that have plenty of old charm.

Site Layout via Inventaire descriptif des monuments du Cambodge – Lunet de Lajonquière – 1902-1912

In the publication, Lajonquiere describes the remains of the original brick temple were still in place (A) with what he described as modern moldings, opening to the east with false doors around its other sides. The east opening was preceded by a brick forebody (b) that had a modern roof added. The forebody connected to an aisle (C) which was constructed of laterite featuring three pillars on each side, this was preceded by a peristyle (D). He noted layers of lacquer applied to the lintel (feat. Indra on Airvata) to which gold leaf was added and also its round supporting columns, also noting two other gilded lintels. He notes the unusual sema stones surrounding the site and their depictions (E). He notes several chedi (L, M, N, O). He notes several lacquered and gilded statues and mentions Ayomonier as having seen the site prior to modern additions and credits the monks for retaining the original style of the site. He notes the “palaces” (R and S) and provides an image of R (?) still partially standing.

Inscriptions

Several inscriptions were recorded here and registered under

• K. 101 – double-sided stele with 37 lines of Sanskrit on one side and 40 on the other – ISCC n° XLVIII, p. 382
• K. 102 – doorframe with 7 + 1 lines on Sanskrit – IC V, p. 32
• K. 103 – doorframe – 4 lines of Khmer text IC V, p. 33
• K. 104 – doorframe – unknown
• K. 650 – stele – 27 lines of Khmer – IC V, p. 170

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap. Rodney Charles L'Huillier has spent over seven years in Cambodia and is the author of Ancient Cambodia (2024) and Essential Siem Reap (2017, 2019). Contact via [email protected] - more..