Preah Theat Khvan Pir Temple

Locate around 40 km from Kratie (Krong Kracheh), Preah Theat Khvan Pir is the remains of two ancient square brick temples that date to the late 6th/7th century. The two temples are aligned north-south and open to the east with sandstone doorframes. Today, the southern tower is partially standing while only the well of the north tower remains. According to inscription, the site dates to the early 8th century.

What remains of the south tower are the stunning remnants of an extremely ornate brick temple with carvings skillfully carved into the brick. The ornate carving begins with floral decoration on the pilasters that flank the open doorway and the false doors around each side. The false doors are flanked by ornate round columns and topped with lintel with a floral pattern emanating from the center without any idol as is common in later temples. This is then topped by a frieze of squares and then a band of leaves, with decoration continuing up the next level but sadly stolen by time and decay.

Either side of the doorway is embossed “floating palaces” that are in incredible condition. These palace depictions feature a staircase leading to a door that is topped by an arched pediment and floral emblem which repeats two more times while being flanked by smaller versions. This is then topped by another grand arch, similar in style to what is called a kadu replicating India’s chaitya hall.

Also interesting is that inside the temple double niches can be seen, several but certainly, not all brick and sandstone temples have niches but it’s the first time I have seen a double niche. What were they for? In most temples, a wooden ceiling was likely just above head height and some say these niches allowed light to illuminate the shrine.

At the time of E. Lunet de Lajonquière’s site report in 1902, part of the wall of the sanctuary on the north was still standing and covered in sculpture while the southern sanctuary (or tower) was still standing on four sides. A berm was also recorded around the perimeter of the site.

360 – sadly my 360 camera has taken some knocks and with scratched lenses, the photos are not so good, but at least you can get an idea of the surroundings.

Getting to the site – From Kratie, take road 7 (sealed road in good condition) heading east for about 15 km and turn north onto the dirt road (in good condition 06/22) and follow that for around 23 km turning south (map) onto a local village trail that’s suitable for moto or 4WD, passing by a small cluster of village huts and follow the easy trail (in dry weather) leading to the site as it appears on satellite for about 5 km until reaching the site. Google Maps shows a trail leading directly from the north of the site, I’m not sure of that trail condition, either way, trails often change after the wet season and also as land titles get granted.

Inscription

• K. 121 – doorjamb – 2 lines of Sanskrit text – Finot 1904, p. 675 – Finot notes it as forming a saghadra and mentioning the name Puşkarākṣa, which he believes could be the prince of Aninditapura and king of Cambhupura based on another inscription.

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap. Rodney Charles L'Huillier has spent over seven years in Cambodia and is the author of Ancient Cambodia (2024) and Essential Siem Reap (2017, 2019). Contact via [email protected] - more..