Preah Enkosei Temple – Highlights & History

Also spelled Enkosey Temple (Khmer: ប្រាសាទព្រះឥន្ទ្រកោសិយ), or Preah Enkosai Temple, was built (or at least restored) in the 10th century under the reign of king Rajendravarman II (r. 944-968). It is a small temple site that is hidden away behind a functioning pagoda of the same name.

It comprises two brick sanctuaries, the remains of two “library” buildings, and the remains of a gopura (entrance) on the east fronted by the remains of two small lions. Around the perimeter of the site, the base structure of a laterite wall can still be seen and it’s worth noting that the pagoda is built atop a laterite base that could be assumed to be blocks recycled from that very wall.

Normally this temple layout would feature three temples, a tall central temple flanked by two lesser shrines, although in this case, it appears the southern shrine was either demolished or never completed. The earliest French reports indicate it was not seen in the 1900s on the first survey of the site. Today we see the tall central temple flanked only by a smaller northern temple next to which a contemporary stupa has been constructed.

A highlight of the temple is its lintel above the doorway of the central tower (or the tallest remaining tower), featuring an unusual upper band, a place commonly reserved for a frieze of worshippers but in this case holding a representation of the Churning of the Sea of Milk including Vishnu, Shiva, and Brahma. Above that in the pediment area, remains of further decorative carving including part of a male figure in a floral niche flanked by a pair of legs. The lintel itself features a beautiful depiction of an elephant Airvata most likely who would have been topped by Indra although he was chiselled away sometime before the first survey of the site at least.

The northern tower features a lintel that is decayed beyond recognition, except for an upper band of decoration. Above the false door on its southern side, you can see some remains of decoration in the brickwork of the pediment. Inside it features a contemporary statue of Khleang Moeung, the warrior spirit of 16th-century folklore, while some people say it’s Trasak Paem, a king in the 14th century according to folklore.

The site also has a collection of sema stones in differing styles laying around in different spots although I have no idea about their original placement, meaning there is more to know about the Preah Enkosei story. They likely surrounded a simple wooden columned vihara that preceded the one we see located at the site today or perhaps a ritual area.

Note, inside the pagoda, there are also sema stones of a later style.

Visit Preah Enkosei

It is located in the central area of Siem Reap and can be reached by a leisurely walk along the beautiful river. The ancient temple is not in the ticketed area and remains free to visit.

Inscriptions

• K. 262 – doorframe with 47 lines of Khmer text – IC IV, p. 108
• K. 263 – a stele with five inscriptions in Sanskrit and Khmer – ISC, n° XIV, p. 77 ; IC IV, p. 118

History

Interestingly, the inscriptions at the site connect it with a temple in Preah Vihear, Prateal Hang Temple. As noted, it is attributed 10th century under the reign of king Rajendravarman II (r. 944-968).

In the early 1900s French explorer and researcher, Etienne Aymonier surveyed the site and reported on the site much as we see it today, detailing the remains of the two standing temples, its lintels, and the inscriptions seen, also noting the pagoda built right beside the structures. It’s also interesting that he noted in a separate publication that Wat Enkosai was at the northern extreme of the “Siem Reap Citadel”.

The sema stones at the site, if they are in fact all from this site, indicate that the Buddhist monastery at the site has its roots in the early post-Angkorian era, perhaps sometime between the 15th to 17th century. It’s not exactly clear (to this author) how old the current iteration of the pagoda is. It should be noted that there is a large pile of round and square wooden columns on the grounds which may or may not have been from an earlier iteration.

The site received restoration works in 2012 I believe and restoration of the old pagoda is set to take place in 2022. A new pagoda on the western side of the monastery grounds has been underway for several years now.

Update: In October of 2022, ASARA has begun restoration works on the pagoda.

Update July 2024

Restoration works of the pagoda have been completed.

Historical Images

(via Persee and Fonds Cambodge)

References

• Les jarres de stockage khmères (IXe-XIVe siècle), Armand Desbat, 2017
• A Ritual Casting at Wat Preah Enkosei, Polkinghorne, M., 2020