Oudong Mountain – Phnom Preah Reach Troap

Located around 40 km north of Phnom Penh in Kandal Province, Oudong became the capital of Cambodia after it shifted from nearby Longvek in 1618 and was the seat of power for over two centuries until around 1863 when it shifted to what is now Phnom Penh. The ancient capital once radiated out around the base of this mountain in all directions with major development around the busy port at Kampong Loung on the edge of the Tonle Sap River.

Oudong Mountain, or Phnom Udong/Phnom Preah Reach Troap, is a sacred mountain that features relics from settlements in ancient times well before becoming a sacred place for royalty and Theravada Buddhism in the 17th-century capital. It features 16 stupas (or Chedi) of differing styles containing the remains of kings and royalty of the era.

After taking a short flight of stairs, you can easily spend an hour or two exploring the stupas, shrines, and buildings across the top of the mountain. You can leave your shoes with the kids halfway up who will look after them for a tip, or better, carry them as you will need them again later.

The first stop and the reason for taking off your shoes is the stunning white stupa that is a modern addition completed in 2002, known as Preah Shakyamuni Chedi it houses Buddha relics transferred from a stupa in Phnom Penh and thousands of Buddha statues (not always open). The stupa is dedicated to King Norodom Sihanouk.

Leaving the stupa and heading across the top of the mountain, you can put your shoes back on again. Here you will come across the stupa of two types, the “Chedi Moul” or bell-shaped stupa and the square-based, multi-level, ornate stupas known as “Chedi Trong Kreoung” type. The most impressive is the stupa of Preah Ang Doung featuring elephants around the base, ornate decoration all the way to the top with a spire topped by four faces of Brahma. Around a prayer hall, you can see old sema stones and their pedestals. and in the ground only partly exposed, an ancient pedestal.

Across to the next peak which is an easy walk down and back up, you can also spot remains of old and ancient sites at the recently restored Wat Arthaross. Here you can see the reuse of the ancient pillars, doorframe, decorative lintel, and naga as the western doors of the vihara while inside there are monolithic brick columns and a giant golden Buddha. It’s not often open.

To the east of Wat Arthaross is another peak atop which is another stupa and the very special Nirvana Buddha of Oudong (Wat Preah Ang Chol Nipean), a monumental reclining Buddha statue that is fronted by a row of monks and a row of royalty. It has been restored in recent times and is another highlight of the mountain range.

You can head down a path from here, and back to the parking lot, passing by Wat Thomakea and the stupa of Queen Sisowath.

On the northwest corner of the mountain, near the Vissapana Buddhist Center, there is another trail that leads up the mountain to four more stupa, from which you can take the stairs to Preah Shakyamuni Chedi and complete the trail as we have described above.

There is no shortage of BBQ stalls at the mountain base along with there being ticketed parking (2000 riel). After all that, there are numerous pagodas and monasteries around the mountain’s perimeter including the Vissipana center on the western side.

Phnom Oudong Trail Map

This trail map highlights the possible routes up the mountain and the stupa and temples seen along the mountain top trail.

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap - Contact via [email protected] - more..