Phnom Hap Temple

Also known as Kom Nob Temple (ប្រាសាទ ភ្នំកំណប់), it’s located atop a small mountain of the same name, Phnom Hap, that lies to the southwest of Phnom Kulen and south of Kbal Spean. At the base of the mountain, on its northeastern side, a Buddhist monastery (wat) provides access to the trail leading up to the temple’s plateau.

The temple’s plateau is partially man-made with buttress walls on the south and east side and once featured an earthen outer wall, 22m a side, with the temple at its center, around 6m a side, featuring a molded sandstone base giving rise to a square brick temple featuring a linga pedestal at its center. The temple opens to the east with steps on its platform on the east and west side only.

Noting the lack of decoration of the base molding and other important features, such as a false door for the western side, it would appear the site was left uncompleted for unknown reasons and furthermore, not receiving an inscription. One could assume from the base molding that the temple dates to the 9-10th century, more likely the later.

Several other remnants were found at the site including two stele and three statues, interestingly, they appear to be from differing eras also indicating activity in 12th century. The Buddhist stele is especially interesting. The images below (dated to the late 1960s) come from the EFEO and more can be seen at Fonds Cambodge. Presently I can find little noted about the discoveries and their exact location which may be complicated by a second site nearby which I’ll go on to mention.

Historical Images EFEO

A second site? Along the entrance road to “Phnom Komnop Pagoda” you’ll notice a shelter housing several ancient temple remnants including pedestals, plinths, and the feet of a small sculpture. At the time of writing, I am unsure where they originate from.

The other great attraction of Phnom Hap/Phnom Komnop is the natural beauty and monumental nature of the sandstone boulders and escarpments, with trees weaving their roots around and through creating epically dramatic scenery. Moreover, the views to be had from the western side are spectacular. From the eastern side along the way up you can occasionally get a glimpse through the trees across to Phnom Kulen. Also full credit to the monks of the pagoda and the local community there, they really have put a great deal of effort, with the resources they have, to create a little paradise. Please be sure to leave a donation/offering at each of the shrines.

Getting to and around Phnom Hap – the site can be reached via the same sealed road that leads past Banteay Srei and towards Kbal Spean, opposite the Kbal Spean Ranger station is the dirt road, also in good condition, that winds its way around to the pagoda following the flags as you go. On the southeastern side of the monastery grounds, there is a staircase that leads up past a small shrine to another pagoda and from behind that, there is a foot trail leading up the mountain. The monks and locals here are all wonderfully warm and friendly.

This foot trail won’t be for everyone and, unless you are familiar with trekking around the Kulen area, you will definitely want a guide. You’ll also want to be moderately fit and comfortable with what is a foot trail through the forest, steep in places, and traversing over rocky terrain. That said, many will love it as we did and go there just for this, and the incredible natural scenery.

The trail leads around the eastern face of the mountain before reaching a small shrine where an acetic once resided, then passing another shelter with a basin to catch the sacred water running down from the mountain. Then, a little further along the trail (blocked by fallen trees at the time, is a steep ladder up and then follow the trail that leads to the temple. On the western side of the temple, a little to the north, there is a newly founded flagpole (the tallest in Siem Reap?) and an amazing viewpoint. On the return, you can go back the same way you came up, or follow the trail north from the viewpoint, down a steep rocky descent and follow the creek (at least in the rainy season) back to the stairs near the pagoda. Again, the trail is unmarked, and not that well-trodden.

Going up takes around 90 mins and about the same going down to complete the loop up to the temple along the eastern side and descent around the western side.

Historical Images – Bruno/Dagens 1973

References

• Boulbet Jean, Dagens Bruno. Les sites archéologiques de la région du Bhnaṃ Gūlen (Phnom Kulen). In: Arts asiatiques, tome 27, 1973. pp. 3-130.

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap - Contact via [email protected] - more..