Peung Tbal (Phnom Kulen)

Located atop Phnom Kulen and southwest of the village of Anlong Thom, it’s also recorded as Poeng Tbal. A fascinating scenic site with natural rock massifs featuring ancient carvings all sitting at the edge of a natural gulley that is believed to have been developed into a reservoir during ancient times.

The groups of rock carvings can be seen in two separate areas, at the rear of the natural arch at the entrance to the site and 100m south. Beneath the natural arch is a large pedestal, two smaller ones, and some stone masonry.

The fascinating rock carvings feature Vishnu in his cosmic sleep (Viṣhṇu Anantasayin), Sadashiva, Shiva and Uma on Nandin the bull, rishi, naga, Ganesha, Skanda, and an array of personages. Interestingly, a fragment of a seated Buddha on Naga statue was also discovered indicating mixed worship. Notably, the statue features Buddha seated on only two coils of the Naga.

The site also carries two inscriptions, one engraved and one in ink (K. 1269). In the rock shelter section, you can see where wooden beams were placed, and in the southern section stone masonry indication constructions at the site. It is reported to be a hermitage and attributed to the 11th century with occupation maybe continuing until the 13th c (ref. Chevance 2013).

Photos 2024

Photos 2021

Getting There

Pueng Tbal is located on the central trail of three “temple” trails that lead southward off the main road that runs east-west across the top of Kulen Mountain. It’s a dirt trail, sandy in places that ascends up the sandstone bedrock before a fork leads off and to the edge of the reservoir where Pueng Tbal is found. Suitable for moto, bike, or hiking, first-time visitors will likely want to use a guided service like those provided by the Anlong Thom CBTC.

Historical Notes

The site was documented in 1936, revisited in the 70s and documented by Boulbet and Dagens, and during excavations in 2007, Jean Baptiste Chevance and team discovered another carving at the site.

Historical Images

Via Sites Archeologiques de la Region du Bhnam Gulen (Phnom Kulen), Boulbet & Dagens, 1973. Noting the style of the garuda, attributable to the 11th c Baphoun style in Photo 120, a carving which is no longer in situ.

Inscription

• K. 1269 – seven lines of Sanskrit – Chevance 2014

The inscription does not contain any specific historical data or dates. However, based on paleographic analysis, researchers believe it likely dates to the 11th century CE. The inscription likely recounts the story of a dignitary who chose to withdraw from worldly affairs. It is also possible that the inscription records a donation of land to support the sanctuary.

References

• Poeng Tbal et Poeng Eisei, ermitages angkoriens méconnus du Phnom Kulen, Jean-Baptiste Chevance, 2013
• Inscriptions du Phnom Kulen. Corpus existant et inscriptions inédites, une mise en contexte, Chevance, 2014

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap. Rodney Charles L'Huillier has spent over seven years in Cambodia and is the author of Ancient Cambodia (2024) and Essential Siem Reap (2017, 2019). Contact via [email protected] - more..