Nokor Bachey Temple

Also known as Wat Nokor, the ancient site features a double enclosure, a naga balustrade on the eastern entrance, a galleried enclosure containing a further galleried enclosure that contains the cruciform-shaped central temple, and two libraries. It features an immense amount of artwork, some quite unique in the context of its.

Perhaps its most unique characteristic is twofold, a prayer hall/vihara common to Theravadan Buddhism, added in later eras joining the east entrance of the central enclosure to the entrance of the central temple, plus, the stupa-style roof of that central shrine. Inside the vihara, featuring an inscribed stele and remnants including a beautiful bollard on one side and Buddha statues and a lintel on the other side. The actual entrance to the central temple underneath that vihara features a beautiful lintel and pediment with the central idol, a Boddihsvatta above Neang Konghing both painted in gold.

The site presented many challenges to early French archeologists who deliberated over its likely era with Henri Parmentier suggesting that the temple began construction in the 10th century as a Buddhist temple, later converting to Brahmanic, only to convert back to being a Buddhist temple. Much later Phillipe Stern would suggest a date of the 12th century, even going as far as noting the artwork belonging between the first and second period of Bayon style.

The site received alterations until the 16th century at least as noted by an inscribed stele at the site and also likely to be the period when it received its stupa above the central shrine and perhaps the vihara.

Site Layout – on the left, focused on the central shrine and central enclosures, and on the right, the full scale of the site with all enclosures

The East Entrance

The Outer East Gopura

Small vihara housing an inscribed stele – a contemporary building added just outside the central enclosure on the north side

The Central Enclosure and Gopura

The Central Sanctuary

A vihara joins the east gopura of the central enclosure to the east entrance of the central temple featuring an inscribed stele and remnants including a beautiful bollard on one side and Buddha statues and a lintel on the other side. The actual entrance to the central temple features a beautiful lintel and pediment with the central idol, a Boddihsvatta above Neang Konghing both painted in gold.

The Libraries

The Outer West Gopura

The old vihara and stupa

On the eastern side of the site, south of the central axis, is the old vihara and newer pagoda. The old vihara features a stepped laterite base while inside the old sandstone stupa can still be seen which likely resembles the one inside the central shrine of Nokor Bachey itself.

Inscriptions

The site features three inscriptions

• K. 82 – a stele, in situ, with 24 lines of Pali and 13 lines of Khmer dated to 1566 AD
• K. 83 – 3 lines of Khmer dating to 1872 AD
• K. 647 – from the nearby temple Yeay Pov, a stele with 23 + 24 lines of Khmer dating to the modern era

Getting There – Wat Nokor is easy to access and is located just on the city limit of Kampong Cham city. Be sure to take some small change for donations to the site caretakers ($1 is nice) and you may or may not need to pay a small entrance fee to the Heritage Police ($1). If you ride there yourself, you will also want to tip whoever is watching over the parked bikes (2000 reil is OK).

The city features an array of mid-level accommodation and guesthouses. On the last visit, I stayed at Pkar Chhouk Teb Hotel and found it to be of excellent value. There are several more temples nearby along the river including Wat Hanchey, Kuok Preah Theat Temple, Kok Lvea Temple, and just out of town on the western side is Phnom Bros, Phnom Srei and Phnom Toch. Also see the province page for more attractions nearby, Kampong Cham Province.