Leak Neang – Hospital Chapel

Located west of Ta Keo temple, it is one of the many ‘hospital chapels’ built during the reign of King Jayavarman VII. The site layout is typical of that construction type featuring a single sandstone temple with a false story superstructure, a hall/mandapa extending east, and then, enclosed by an outer wall with entrance gopura. There appears to be a small basin in the north, which is also typical of the type, although it is presently uncleared. As a side note, confusingly, there are a lot of sites named “Leak Neang”.

The site is orientated to the east, beginning with the remains of a gopura (entrance gate) that was constructed of laterite with a sandstone base and doorframes.

Fronting the shrine is what appears to be a rearrangement of masonry to make a terrace, that may or may not be attributable to the Theravadin Buddhist Terraces of the post-Angkor era. Remnants resting on the ground also feature lots of interesting art including parts of a pediment, a lintel, a naga corner piece, and a small guardian figure with an OM symbol on the chest and breast amongst other pieces.

At the very entrance to the shrine, there is a pedestal, seemingly of a style belonging to a much earlier era which was once topped by a decapitated statue as seen in the historical images. Inside, a remnant of what may have been the medicine Buddha atop a coiled naga sitting on another pedestal. There is tapestry seen on the door jambs, much like other temples of the 12-13th c, door columns seeming only partly finished which are topped by a simple decorative lintel. Further inside, in the central shrine, there is an uplifted pedestal.

Around the outer walls, you can see reliefs of several devatas, ornate pilasters with floral patterns, and art belonging to the Bayon style. However, some pilasters also feature a leaf with a figure inset, usually a depiction of a seated Buddha-like figure that was hacked away during the so-called “iconoclasm” post the Jayavarman VII era, and some here have suffered the same fate while others unusually depict figures participating in sports such as hunting and so on.

Above the western false door, south side, there is a depiction of two deer above a Kala. Interesting iconography continues on the upper registers of the false floors where there are two pointed spears beside two seated figures in prayer and a scene that possibly includes parasols. The artwork here, albeit decayed, possibly deserves more attention.

The images below are from 2021 and 2022.

History

During the era of Jayavarman VII (reign 1181–1218 AD), 102 “hospital chapels”, or Arogyasala throughout the ancient Khmer empire according to inscriptions found at Ta Prohm and Say Fong (Finot 1940, 1941, 1903; Briggs 1951). Leak Neang, formerly named by the French surveys as Temple de l’Hopital, is one of the four Arogyasala that surround Angkor Thom at each of its cardinal points. Also see: Map and list of ancient Hospital Chapels

Site clearance work was carried out in 1928 by Henri Marchal which revealed fragments of a pediment representing Lokesvara, that others noted: “contrasts singularly with the fact that the edict of the hospitals places the foundation under the invocation of the Bhaisajyaguru and his two assistants, without mentioning Lokesvara” (BEFEO 28).

Historical photos (© EFEO Circa 1928)

Inscriptions

A stele with an inscription was apparently found here and registered under K.537. The stele is recorded as being four-sided with 28 lines of Sanskrit on one side and 30 lines on each other side. It is reported as being at the Angkor National Museum. I am yet to find any further info on when this stele was originally discovered or a record of its content.

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap. Rodney Charles L'Huillier has spent over seven years in Cambodia and is the author of Ancient Cambodia (2024) and Essential Siem Reap (2017, 2019). Contact via [email protected] - more..