Beng Mealea Temple

Beng Mealea (Khmer: ប្រាសាទបឹងមាលា), is one of the ancient Khmer Empires’ larger temple complexes and is located 40 km east of the main group of temples at Angkor Archeological Park along the ancient royal highway that led to Preah Khan of Kampong Svay.

According to the architectural style, similar to that of Angkor Wat, it was loosely attributed to having been built during the reign of King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century. From a new inscription, scholars now attribute the site to the reign of a Buddhist king, Tribhuvanadityavarman (reign 1149 – circa 1180 AD) who succeded Suryavarman II.

Beng Mealea is a large and fascinating site, especially when you take into account not just the temple itself but also its massive moat-surrounded grounds, Kansaeng Temple which was a later addition under Jayavarman VII, and its grand bordered causeway on the eastern entrance leading to a grand terrace connecting to the grand baray. Add to that the satellite temples like the island temple in the center of the baray, Veal Phtei, and surrounding the baray, Prasat Chrey, Prasat Kampong Phluk, and on the western side of the temple complex, Prasat Don Chan, Prasat Ta Phou and the sandstone quarry area or O Thma Dap.

Site Layout

I always find it interesting to look at the first layout plans drawn by the French in the late 1800s and early 1900s, these, from Aymonier and Delaporte give a great overall perspective of the site still to this day

From the western entrance terrace to the eastern edge of the baray, it’s just over 3km to give a sense of the staggering scale of the entire complex, if we consider Aymoniers plan of an outer berm that created a citadel enclosing the satellite temples on the western side then that distance expands to near 4km. As for the temple proper it is surrounded by a moat, 1025m by 875m, whilst third and outer enclosure of the temple is 181m on the east-west axis by 152m on the north-south axis.

Inside the outer enclosure are two annex buildings flanking the south causeway and flaking the eastern causeway, a grand cruciform, there are two “library” buildings, inside the second enclosure is almost immediately the first enclosure containing another two library buildings, and the central shrine. Today it’s hard to recognize it as the site has not had any major attempts at restoration and a wooden pathway leads the visitor across the ruins and past many of the spectacular artistic highlights.

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Visiting Beng Mealea

Tickets are not sold on site and you will need an Angkor Pass to visit more info here. Nearby the site you can find several drink stalls and several local-style food stalls.

You can easily reach Beng Mealea from Siem Reap via excellent sealed roads with it taking around 80-90mins by car. It’s usually done as a day trip from Siem Reap although 15 mins to the north is Svay Leu village which does have two reasonable guesthouse options and you may want to continue up Kulen Mountain.

Around Beng Mealea there are several more temples including Don Chan Temple, Ta Phou Temple, Chrei Temple (Beng Mealea) and Kong Pluk Temple. Head east towards Khvav Village there are many more sites along the ancient road including the charming ancient bridge Spean Ta Ong and even more as you follow the route to Preah Khan of Kampong Svay albeit being a challenging trail one crossing into Preah Vihear.

Gallery 2021