Banteay Thom Temple

Banteay Thom Temple (ប្រាសាទបន្ទាយធំ) is a temple located 15km north of Siem Reap and 10km north of Angkor Wat. It is well outside of the standard tour circuits, the small circuit and grand circuit, and is accessed only by motorbike, bike, or by foot. Banteay Thom Temple is believed to have been built around the 12th-13th centuries under the reign of King Jayavarman VII. 

Site Layout & Visiting Banteay Thom

The site opens to the east with a cruciform terrace that leads to the only entry in the outer laterite wall after which are two ponds and a 3/4 moat that then surrounds the inner galleried wall containing the main temple. This galleried wall encloses two small libraries and three incredibly ornate towers albeit all quite ruinous.

Pay close attention to the narrated pediments, devata and dvarapala, and motifs/roundels which are quite unique and similar to those of Preah Khan. One very special pediment relief, that’s almost managed to remain complete, would appear to depict Buddha’s Great Departure. I’ve visited the site several times and continue to notice new quirks in the expanse of relief carvings and decoration.

It’s a very peaceful site in a lovely natural setting, so take the time to enjoy a walk along the outer perimeter of the inner galleried wall where you’ll see two trees taking over sections of the wall not dissimilar to those at the famed Ta Phrom.

Located amongst the rice paddies, hidden by trees and accessed only by narrow dirt tracks well off the main road, and pleasantly invokes a “jungle find” feeling.

Getting there

From Siem Reap, head towards the west entrance road of Angkor Wat and Angkor Balloon, then head west and then head north on the Korean Ring Road. Head north on this road, minding the potholes, for 6 km or a little more and you’ll see a dirt trail leading off to the right. Follow that as it weaves right and then left and left again until you reach a large cluster of trees and on heading in you’ll be met with the outer wall of the temple. Google Maps displays the trail to the temple perfectly. The trail often has large mudholes after any rain and you are sure to bump into a cow or two along the way.

Ticket: Angkor Pass Required Open Time: 7.30 – 5.30

Inscriptions

• K. 458 – see K 550
• K. 459 – see K 551
• K. 550 – north library door jamb – three lines naming people of the royal order “kamraten jagat çrivrddhadeva”, “kamraten jagat çrivrddheçvara”, and “kamraten jagat çrîvrddheçva”
• K. 551 – south tower door jamb – one line naming a person of the royal order “kamraten jagat çrïsugatacandravodhi”
• K. 962 – east gopura 1 door jamb – Khmer text
• K. 1038 – central tower, rear of lintel – Khmer text
• K. 1039 – central tower door jamb – Khmer text

References

• Cœdès Georges. VII. Études cambodgiennes XXXIX. L’épigraphie des monuments de Jayavarman VII. In: Bulletin de l’Ecole française d’Extrême-Orient. Tome 44 N°1, 1951. pp. 97-120