Angkor Wat – Gopura

Angkor Wat has four gopura (entry gates) each located at cardinal points while only the west and east gates have causeways crossing the moat. The western entrance is the main and grandest entrance of all. See here for the complete guide to Angkor Wat, and here we’ll continue on with the moat and outer gopura of the first enclosure.

1. West Gopura 2. North Gopura 3. East Gopura 4. South Gopura

The Moat

Angkor Wat’s moat is an integral feature not only of symbolism by surrounding the “temple-mountain” with an ocean representing the myth of Mount Meru, but it is also believed to be integral to the stability of the temple helping support its massive weight by stabilising the groundwater beneath.

The moat is 200 m wide, 4 m deep and covers a perimeter of 5 km. It is lined with massive sandstone blocks which are capped at the top with decorated sandstone. The moat connects to the moat of Angkor Thom in the north and drains in the south connecting eventually, all the way to the Tonle Sap.

The Western Gopura

The western gopura is the grandest of all the entrances and is fronted by a grand causeway that crosses the moat. In 1904, the French explorer and archaeologist Aymonier noted the locals as naming the gopura Kouk Maha Reach (literally, cell of the great king) and containing the statue Neak Ta Maha Reach as is known today as Ta Reach that was surrounded by bundles of hair paying homage to the statue. It was also surrounded by other broken statuary that would appear to be still in place as it was back then being the feminine statue that resides to the right of Ta Reach today.

The gopura is approximately 240 m long from north to south and 35 m at its widest point, being the main entrance.

It features five entrances with the center entrance aligning to the grand causeway and the temple proper, there are lesser entrances to either side, and at each end larger entrances that are flush with the ground level, they are often referred to as the elephant gates.

This gopura is, as you’d expect incredibly ornate featuring bas-relief pediments, lintels, ornate wall reliefs and patterns, highly decorated false doors, and Apsara carvings.

Located in the entrance right of the center entrance, the main statue here, revered as Ta Reach (literally “royal ancestor”, local neak ta spirit) is speculated to be the original statue of Vishnu from the central shrine (on the 3rd level of Angkor Wat). The statue is mentioned in an inscription on the walls of Angkor Thom that was added in the post-Angkorian era stating that the mother of King Sattha donated her hair to create a lacquer to protect the statue. It is likely that it was also restored at that time from a broken state and the head replaced by an alternate version. The statue underwent another major restoration around the year 2000 that revealed the prior restoration works using lead, it also revealed gold leaf that once covered the statue. In a big event for the time, the original head was held at the Phnom Penh Museum and returned to Siem Reap to be repatriated with its body. Annually, at the end of harvest, a festival is held to pay homage to the spirit.

If you have time, take note of

• Each entrance prang, or tower, features internal and external carved relief pediments
• The windows all feature unique patterns, the colonettes are also interesting and of differing styles
• The doorjambs feature rich tapestry with motifs, sometimes with unique figures
• The interior of the false door at the northern end is quite well preserved and ornate
• Rich decoration abounds around the eaves and cornices internally
• A linear row of small dancing apsara carvings stretching the length of the building.
• Look inside along the internal walls and you will see paintings left by monks sometime around the 17-18th century and a linear row of small apsara carvings stretcing the length of the building.
• As pictured below, one Apsara is very unique
• There are numerous other statues adorning the halls also.
• The exterior of the eastern side is particularly ornate featuring rich decoration and numerous motifs

Apsara

There are numerous Apsara carvings, some with amazing detail and well preserved. The Apsara surrounding the west side of the central entrance are notable for featuring a diadem and on the eastern side, enshrined Apsara on either side of the entrance. It also features the only single Apsara to display teeth, although some locals believe that this may have been added during restoration (located on the outer wall, south side of the entrance that is south of the central entrance).

Statuary

Late-era Paintings
The paintings are believed to have been added during the 18th century.

Tapestry on doorjambs
Each doorjamb is unique, some featuring people in daily life, animals, and devata.

Tapestry on Windowframes
Like the doorjambs, each window is unique

Motifs on the east exteriour wall

The East Gopura

The east gopura is around 63 m long from north to south and 40 m at its widest point. It features rich decoration in places, Apsara carvings, and some bas-relief pediments still intact. It is fronted by an unrestored causeway that crosses the moat. It appears to use sandstone from a source different from the rest of the site.

The North Gopura

The north gopura is around 56 m long from east to west and 31 m at its widest point. It features some bas-relief pediments still intact. It has a nice view over the moat and you can often see lotus flowers blooming in the moat from here.

The South Gopura

Identical to the north gopura, the south gopura is around 56 m long from east to west and 31 m at its widest point. It has preserved more of its ornate features including rich decoration on its eaves and cornices, some unique carvings in places, Apsara carvings on the outer walls, a lintel, and some bas-relief pediments still intact. It too has a view out over the moat. It also has a revered statue, that isn’t a statue, I’ll leave it to you to figure out.

Did Angkor Wat originally have four bridges?

Why do the North and South Gopura of Angkor Wat not have bridges or causeways? It is a great anomaly. In the past, perhaps they were made of wood and are now long gone. Some researchers propose that these wooden bridges on the north and south may have been the primary access for carts etc (Jacques 2005:156).

There is a Japanese map from the 17th century, pictured below, that indicates causeways/bridges on each side, although the map has many inconsistencies with the actual layout creating doubts for some.

Although, there is also a French publication from 1885 by Francis Garnier, Voyage d’exploration en Indo-Chine, that features a map of Angkor Wat showing bridges at each entrance, pictured below.

For more on Angkor Wat, see here for the complete guide to Angkor Wat

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap - Contact via [email protected] - more..