Here’s a nice easy trail, by foot or bicycle that takes you around to rarely visited giant lion statues which ‘Maurice Glaze described as “amongst the finest and the best proportioned to be found in Khmer art”. They truly are beautiful and the best examples are truly hidden from the well-worn paths of many travelers.
Phnom Bakheng is the well-known temple atop the small mountain residing between Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom that is also an extremely popular sunset and sunrise viewing destination. The temple itself is a fascinating place with a long story crossing many periods of the Khmer empire and just as fascinating is its four axial stairways which are best discovered from a trail at the foot of the mountain.
Approaching the usual east-facing route that leads to the top of the mountain you can see the remnants of the outer enclosure wall and gopura that passed through to meet two massive lions guarding a staircase that led to the mountaintop temple site. It’s also interesting to note that these large lions were preceded by a smaller lion whose remnants can be seen alongside what remains of the entry gopura and wall which would have once joined to a long processional causeway.
So, how about the south, west, and north entries? There’s a trail for that.
Opposite Rong Lmong temple, on the road that leads from Angkor Wat to Angkor Thom South Gate, you’ll see a small trail that often has an Apsara guard stationed there. The trail leads its way around the base of the mountain taking in the south, west, and north entrances. The trail itself is quite pleasant, well shaded, and features lots of curious pieces of laterite and sandstone just to make it interesting along the way.
At what would have been the south axis you’ll find a great mystery which has confounded locals and experts till this day, I’ll get back to that later. Up the side of the mountain here are copious amounts of sandstone pieces, some say were likely leftovers, unused or unwanted pieces dumped during construction, or periods of renovation over time as seen below.
Following the trail along you’ll reach the west entrance and one of the most beautiful and characterful sights in Angkor, still surrounded by native scrub and seemingly undisturbed by time, the massive and well-preserved lion presents itself standing tall just as it would have when originally placed here centuries ago as pictured below. Sadly his offsider has decided to lay down and take a nap. The staircase is mostly lost but traces can still be seen.
Heading further around the trail you’ll connect with the path that goes past Sak Kraop Temple/Prasat Bei/Bay Kaek. Just before reaching Prasat Bei, about opposite the boat ramp for the moat gondola cruises, you’ll see the best preserved of all the entrances and two amazingly preserved lions in particular the lion on the right as pictured below.
The two here are in superb condition and one is complete in its entirety retaining all of its original features which is so rare to find.
From here you can go on to explore Sak Kraop Temple, Prasat Bei, Bay Kaek and even return back to the east entry and head up to Phnom Bakheng temple proper.
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The mystery of the missing lions and staircase
So what about that south axis? No staircase and no lions have been found here with the reasoning unknown bar some mentioning the incline being prohibitive. But interestingly, a stone lion was found during excavations in Phnom Penh with questions raised as to it possibly originating from this site see Deminers unearth ancient lion statue.
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