I promised the kids months ago I’d take them up to Kulen Mountain and this school holiday was finally the chance. We loaded up two motos and headed off from Siem Reap and spent three wonderful days and two nights up there stopping by Beng Melea on our way back. Camping in a random spot along the trails on the first night, and on the second night, a beautiful spot on the bank of the river west of Peam Kre, which we had completely to ourselves. We circled the key hotspots and even a couple of sites that were new to me.
Tour Map
Day 1
We left Siem Reap City around 6.30 AM and took advantage of the new Siem Reap Airport Expressway and then turned north onto Road 64. The expressway is a huge timesaver if you do not intend to visit the sites and attractions around the Damdek area. Via the expressway, it only takes around an hour to reach Beng Melea at an easy pace of 60 km/h on the moto. Of course, you could also follow the ancient road route from Angkor to Beng Melea.
We’d stop for breakfast just before Beng Mealea temple at the local breakfast stalls. Of course, there’s a debate, “Let’s go to this one, it has Khmer noodles”…”no, there are no people there, let’s go to this one, it has Bai Sach Chrouk”. Bai Sach Chrouk won this time.
APSARA has been restoring the aqueduct and Makara spout (more) just a few km north of here so we went up for a look. There’s a trail leading up to the site now, which goes around the pagoda, and past Ta Phou. After that it is a bit of a goat trail at the moment but no problem for our Honda’s. They have done some great work at this site and it’s a very special place, I do not doubt that this will be a top-tier place of pilgrimage for Khmer and perhaps foreigners too.
Sadly the sun was a little strong to get any nice photos so, I’ll probably go back here soon assuming work there must be completed shortly.
After that, we’d head to Svay Leu and up the beautiful winding road to the top of Kulen Mountain. I was a little worried about how the girls would manage the moto going up but I shouldn’t have, they road straight on by us. With two people on the Honda Dream, myself and Chanthim with a combined weight of 120 kg plus camping gear etc, the bike made it up easily, in second gear most of the way. The Honda Wave, with Damey and Damey, I guess around 80 kgs combined, had no trouble
We’d stop by Wat Chas for the amazing view and take the trail down the cliff edge to Peung Preah Thvear. Damey and Dama led the way down a steep set of wooden stairs and then a trail that hugged the cliff edge around to the right along a rocky, grass-covered foot trail to the site of the carvings and inscription. Along the trail, you can also see where enormous amounts of sandstone have been quarried.
From there we’d head to Anlong Thom, grab some more bottles of water, snacks, and also forget to fill up with gas before taking the trail down to Damrei Krap and Srah Damrei.
We’d divert off the main trail and check out Anlong Thom temple and Neak Ta temple then light a small campfire (with permission) and cook some noodles before heading down to Chrei temple, then Bos Neak and then down further to an area that appears on a lidar map but I have no idea what. There’s a large group of sandstone monoliths and a deep gulley but without any clear foot trails it felt a bit sketchy walking around, especially with the girls in tow, so, we headed back to the main trail, continuing south. Something for the next trip.
This trail for the most part follows the original route although one intersection of trails offers three options, one heading back to Thnal Mrech, another that appears to be the right way leads to a swampy boghole, another smaller trail is the one that leads to a raised section clearing the boggy mess. The trail from there is a sandstone uneven sandstone incline mixed with boggy sections, and small water crossings before reaching Damrei Krap. I think for most people, unless you are familiar with Khmer trails and have a local Honda, and you are OK with a getting few bumps and scratches on it, it might be best to use the services of the Anlong Thom CBT who can guide you there.
From Bos Neak to Damrei Krap took around an hour and the day was almost finished, so, we set up our tent and hammocks, cooked some noodles (again), and got some well-earned rest.
Day 2
The next morning grabbed some photos of Damrei Krap temple. It truly is another of the great wonders of the Khmer temples one for its state of preservation and two for the incredible art it displays. It must surely have been the predominant temple of ancient Mahedraparvata, what we know today as Phnom Kulen, or more correctly Preah Jayavarman-Norodom Phnom Kulen National Park.
We met up with the caretakers of Damrei Krap temple who not only pointed out the new trail leading down to Srah Damrei, he was a little worried we’d take a wrong turn so he led the way. This trail is easygoing for the most part, flat, and sandy in places, also passing through plantations with curious mounds, before reaching a steep decline and plateau that leads to the site.
We roamed around the massive sculptures, and the ponds, and enjoyed the wonderful view out across the new development at Run Ta Ek.
From there we headed back to Damrei Krap, thanked the staff there once again, and headed on to Peung Moha Eisei and O Toub temple.
After that, it was back to the main road to get fuel and look for some hot food which was a bit of a challenge. Luckily we found a lovely couple running a stall with some dining huts by the road. They’d finished cooking for the day but said if we were happy to wait they’d make some fresh rice and BBQ pork and fish, Yes please, said everyone.
Stomachs full and motorbikes full, we went down to the river near Peam Kre for a swim and relaxed for a while.
From there, we took the trail down to “Prasat Kok Chen” as named on Google Maps, yet I cannot find a recorded name for the site which was seemingly located well after the EFEO era of cartography that ended with the wonderful publication, Bhnam Gulen, by Bruno and Dagens in the 70s. From there it was down to Aram Rong Chen, the amazing pyramid temple often anecdotally touted as the birthplace of the Angkorian Empire.
The trail to this site has changed a little too, it almost follows the same route from years ago excepting having a new entry point and a diversion part way along. The trail is good in part, with slippery sandstone inclines in others and the odd bog hole. The scale and curiosity of the site still fire the imagination and make one wonder as to its original realised form and purpose. We wandered around its perimeter and appreciated just that.
After, we headed back to the junction at so named Prasat Kok Chen and then took the trail down to Peung Tbal.
From there, it was back to the main road to buy some more water and head to Prasat Peam Kre. It’s a site that I’d yet to visit and I’m glad I did this time.
After Peam Kre we’d go back to the main road and stock up on water and go looking for a campsite. Along the main road that runs parallel to the river near Prasat Peam Kre is a string of privately run campsites now. I remember years ago there was just one! This is where the fussiness of a foreigner kicks in, I wanted to find a peaceful site, with no loudspeakers or KTV parties, and chill by the river. I also didn’t want to intrude on someone’s property. We kept riding along and came across a government-run camping site, no people, secure, and a beautiful spot along the river with sandy banks and some tarpaulins already set up.
The signboard had a number that Chanthim called and ten minutes later a young guy dropped by, grabbed our details inc. a photo of my passport, and made sure we had what we needed. The cost is 20,000 Reil ($5.00 USD) per BYO tent and 10,000 Riel ($2.50 USD) per BYO hammock. For the four of us, it was a grand total of $7.50 for the night and we’d have the expansive area entirely to ourselves. I cannot imagine it being such a quiet spot during Khmer holidays and maybe even weekends from November to April.
While everyone was eating, I crossed over the river with the camera and tripod (to justify carrying it all this way) and had a try at slow exposure shots. I won’t be a photographer anytime soon, but it’s fun nonetheless.
This was a super peaceful place, the river perfect, no noise at all from anywhere even though the main road was only a short way away. Here’s the location on Google Maps and the phone number is 085842929 (Khmer) or you can reach out to the Anlong Thom CBTC.
Day 3
There were a few drops of rain during the night, and I woke around 4 AM to a clear morning, lit the fire once more, and wondered if I should wake everyone up so we could go to watch the sunrise on the east cliff. No, just chill and relax and enjoy the river. Everyone woke around 6 AM and by 7 we were back on the road, and on our way down the mountain.
We stopped in Svay Leu for breakfast but sadly the stall at Heng Sreng Guesthouse has now closed, so we went to one nearby which was OK. You guessed it, Bai Sach Chrouk was on the menu again.
We headed off to Beng Mealea Temple stopping for a quick look at O Thma Dap, a sandstone quarry and stream that connects with the Makara we’d seen on the first day. We’d wander around Beng Mealea and just enjoy the stroll, the sun was far too strong for good photo ops. Notable is that Kansaeng Temple has now been cleared.
After that, it was an easy ride home to Siem Reap City once again making use of the new airport expressway.
Conclusion
This was a really fun few days and at the same time introduced important heritage sites for the kids. I had some fear they would bemoan some of the rougher trails and struggle on the bike, but they loved it and handled the trails amazingly. They’ve already asked to go again next holiday 🙂
Nothing much has changed on the Anlong Thom side of the mountain (which is a good thing) since our multiple visits in 2021 and short visits in 22 and 23. Some routes to the temples have changed slightly, and, we especially thank the locals there along the way who pointed us onto the new trail sections.
More: See here for an intro to visiting Phnom Kulen including the waterfall and all the temples and attractions. See here for all the things to do in Siem Reap and here for a list of all the major temples in the province and here for more of our tours.