Funky name for a tour, looking back on it, I probably should call it the pagoda tour, although Kampong Cham, Tbong Khum and Kratie are where most of the time would be spent, and never far from the spectacular Mekong River.
Departing from Siem Reap, this tour didn’t have a grand plan apart from revisiting some temples along what is becoming a well-trodden route for me, from Siem Reap to Kampong Thma, and then heading to Kampong Cham and then somewhere new which is to follow the Mekong River through Tbong Khmum province, ending at Kratie to see the famed Irrawaddy Dolphins. This time, I’d be meeting a colleague, Chanthim, at Tnaot Chum and travelling together the rest of the journey, both of us on identical Honda Waves!
This tour went from June 17th to 23rd covering a bit over 1000 km by the time I’d return to Siem Reap. The roads are mostly excellent and there were only a few places where we didn’t enjoy the good sealed roads and even those sections were relatively easy-going and even had a good stretch of sunny days to boot.
As for ancient temples and relics, the highlights were Preah Theat Khvan Pir and Vihear Thom plus several smaller sites with remnants. Also on this trip revisiting Preah Theat Prei Srei, Nokor Bachey, Kuk Yeay Hom, and Tnoat Chum, all of these sites are quite special and well and truly worthy of multiple visits to learn more, if not just to enjoy their character and qualities.
The other big highlight of travelling this way is the spectacular Mekong river views, its tributaries, and the life that flourishes around them, along with the diversity of cultures. Kampong Cham & Tbong Khmum are especially culturally rich and diverse, the latter especially having a very ancient history according to archeological record which the Tbong Khmum gov website introduces quite well. Then, there is Kratie and the very special Irrawaddy dolphins of Kampi, with a camera phone I wouldn’t be getting any great photos of these elusive beauties managed to capture them on a video, and a great time regardless, more here.
As you can see from the map below, we quite tediously stopped by as many pagodas as possible occasionally spotting ancient relics, the highlight being Wat Vihear Thum for that, and also to see so many different styles of pagodas, old stupas, and several new pagodas under construction and many in stages of restoration. There are a lot of highlights including two wooden pagodas, and several sites that have constructions dating back 70 years or more.
The restoration of pagodas is quite interesting, in general, no one thinks about pagodas too much but they should. In my mind at least, so many of these sites were built as Cambodia rose out from the ashes of devasting period and were built by people who had little except for a huge heart for the community. They rebuilt hope. It’s around many of these pagodas that the community could start slowly start to flourish again. Moreover, the artwork seen here, as it is at the ancient temples, is the expression of that time period, and much of it is interesting and unique, but sadly, most find it boring. This could be a huge point of regret in the future. Restoration works in many cases involve painting over the old murals with new styles and themes, removing the old decoration and replacing it with new etc. The hope would be that the old pagoda is recorded digitally at least.
There are also lots of new pagoda under construction and the shift in art style is plain to see with a huge tilt towards the Angkorian era and away from the style of the Middle Period and later French Era. A perfect example is that at Phnom Bros Bosknor and the transition taking place at Wat Preah Puth Moni Rainsy.
Tour Map
Accommodation along the way
- Kampong Cham – Di DOK Guesthouse – simple, clean, and quiet for $11 (stayed here again on the return). Stayed one night at Sopheak Mongkul Saphir Hotel but, bass speakers thumping away all night nearby so it’s a pass, otherwise, it’s great for $12.
- Kratie – Luck Life World Hotel – quiet and clean for $15 staying two nights
- Kampong Thom – Darasei Guesthouse – modern and clean plus best coffee for miles $15
All the sites visited – mouse over for the name or click to visit, I don’t have great detail on the contemporary sites as yet, but there is some for the ancient sites.
