Some of the best things are never planned. This started as a trip to Sambor Prei Kuk to get some up-to-date photos and turned into something much longer, starting on Jan 17 and in the end, rolling back into Siem Reap on Feb 10. To be honest, it wasn’t completely unplanned, this journey perhaps has its beginnings back in 2017 when I created a map of sites in Angkor for the book Essential Siem Reap on Amazon and at the same time, HelloAngkor.com was born. After those, the bug was well and truly planted to make a map of all the sites across the massive Khmer Empire and with the locations of all the temples saved in Google Maps, the journey was really just sitting there waiting for the right time.
This would turn out to be the right time, but, at no point on this journey did I think about covering such a distance and so many sites, it was just day by day, with an attitude of things are going well? OK, keep going, and that worked fine. Making this possible was a new bike which makes eating up miles so easy and something less to think about.
As much as I love an old cheap beater, they don’t really inspire long-distance travel, so in December I purchased a new Honda Wave which is the second most popular bike in Cambodia just behind the slightly larger Honda Dream. The Wave is a small 100cc semi-auto which is a near-perfect allrounder for exploring ancient sites across Cambodia, fast enough for most sealed roads, small and nimble enough to weave through bush trails, and light enough to be dragged out of the mud or wade over sandy trails. Not perfect at anything, but acceptable for everything. Moreover, they are not expensive, brand new from Honda at $1300 USD. Being new means there’s nothing more to worry about other than punctures, you can just keep adding fuel and keep going.
Only three additions were made to the bike, and essential ones, a USB port for charging the phone, a phone holder for viewing maps on the go, and saddlebags for storage, all of which came off my old bike and originally via AliExpress. As for what I had packed, I carried a laptop for work duties, a phone, 360 camera, snacks, and some clothes.
I did have reservations about how people in smaller villages might receive a solo foreigner, with Covid still an ongoing issue, but honestly, it was never an issue. And that’s not to say people are not cognizant as everyone wears masks, stores offer sanitizer and temperature checks in big stores, etc, so combined with being predominantly outdoors anyway, I certainly didn’t have any personal concerns and felt safe the whole way. On the whole, it was smiles after smiles after smiles, the warmth that Khmer people radiate is well known and alive and well.
So, why call it the “Red Dot Tour”? To honor the amazing efforts of Bruno Bruguier (and colleagues, partners etc.) that gave us such an incredible collation of maps and information that makes it so easy for us all today to study the wonders and glory of the ancient Khmer Empire. Between 2009 and 2017 some seven volumes of works were released that collated the very fragmented early French/Khmer research and provided an incredible reference to all the ancient sites, plus, also giving rise to the online database, CISARK – Carte Interactive des Sites Archéologiques Khmers. You can read more about Bruno Bruguier here and his works listed here and here and here.
The maps I’d made of Siem Reap came from French reports of the 1900s and online research papers, while for the other provinces on this trip, I’d use his big red dots indicating standing sites on the maps of his numerous volumes of work to decide which sites to focus on, thus the Red Dot Tour. His printed maps are perfect and tile nicely in Google Earth with a big red dot having around a 1 km radius, so, satellite imagery and friendly locals easily fill in the last leg. But, to be honest Google Maps now has quite a lot of sites accurately marked along this way and that seems to be growing.
In the end, I’d cover Kampong Thom, Kampong Cham, Tbong Khmum, Prey Veng, Kandal, Phnom Penh, Kampot, Kep, Kampong Chhnang, Pursat and go back over Battambang, Banteay Meanchey, Utdor Meanchey and the western edge of Siem Reap to cover some sites previously missed. It was also a hectic pace, from daybreak to sunset most days, and a laser-like focus on big sites and avoiding being distracted by adventures hunting lesser ruins/other attractions. Those can come next time. What is amazing to me, or so fortunate, is that there was no issue to be had bar having one puncture for the whole trip and dealing with crazy van drivers plus some of the really dangerous overtaking culture on roads out of Phnom Penh.
What follows is a map of the sites visited (still need to add a bunch of pagodas etc) plus a brief overview of each day which is mostly boring but perhaps interesting if you are going that way.
The Red Dot Tour Map
Day 1 – Siem Reap > Kampong Thom
Stops along this section included Spean Praptos which is a must if passing through Kampong Kdei, Wat Khleang Khmut to check out the curious stupa that resides there, Wat Preah Neang to see their beautiful contemporary stupa and the remains of the ancient site, the small brick temple of Banteay Stoung that received some Buddhist modification in later times, then Svay Ier Temple with its beautiful lintel, then the charismatic Prasat Andet, lastly, a look around a few pagodas their ancient remains, the highlight being Wat Kampong Thom, before reaching Ban Houn Guesthouse around 4 pm. Ban Houn Guesthouse was $19 for the aircon room, I asked if they had fan rooms and they said no, which differs from other reports, regardless, it was excellent.
Day 2 – Sambor Prei Kuk
From Kampong Thom to the ticket office and entry to the temples of Sambor Prei Kuk takes around 40 minutes by moto and is a sealed road all the way excluding the temple area which features dirt roads/trails in fine condition. Including Wat Mohar on the way, there are around 20 sites to visit here which was easily done in the day and each one can be reached easily by moto, or by tuk-tuk/car bar the Romeas Group (which was under restoration at the time and it also may get a larger road when that section reopens). Strangely, like Koh Ker, they don’t offer a multi-day ticket with a discount. If there was such, I would have stayed longer and split the visit across two mornings or afternoons. More here on all the Sambor Prei Kuk sites.
The area is quite easy to get around and they do give you a useful map when you buy the entry ticket. Opposite the ticket office, there was a cafe that looks to have closed and may reopen when things pick up, plus a couple of BBQ/drink stalls. I really struggled to get nice photos here, simply the brightness of the day combined with the shadows of the tree branches making for tiger patterned photos without great detail, but, I’ll be very happy to revisit the site. Rather than a camera phone, a DSLR with a ND/CPL filter could be helpful.
I also ventured around a few of the lesser sites, working from map overlayed in Google Earth again, none being any more than brick rubble, although one site still featured its moat. The entire “citadel” also featured an outer moat which is still functioning to some degree and still features a causeway leading out its western side although the entrance is sealed off for unknown reasons.
At the end of the day, a 40 min ride back to Ban Houn Guesthouse. The lady at the ticket office mentioned that they are putting in some effort to create homestays and places to eat in Prasat Sambor District which is just minutes away on the northern side of the temple area, so keep that in mind.
Day 3 – Kampong Thom > Kampong Leang District (Kampong Chhnang) > Kampong Thmar
There are two ways to visit the several temples of Kampong Leang, either from the south via Kampong Chhnang and using the ferry, or via road from the north. I chose to take the road out of Kampong Thom past Trapeang Veng which is sealed for a short way and then becomes a dirt road that degrades as it gets closer to crossing into Kampong Chhnang but I get the feeling they may be planning to seal the road the whole way which will be a huge time saver for locals and perhaps spur some more tourism. As it is now, it’s easily passable but not so enjoyable bar the countryside scenery and took around an hour by moto to travel 30 km.
It’s easy to see the Kampong Leang area becoming a popular and beautiful tourism destination one day featuring a beautiful series of mountains that is circled by a ring road. Not to say it isn’t beautiful now, but to say it has extraordinary potential. There are four standing ancient temples here, one of them is particularly stunning and that is Preah Srei Temple. There are also several monasteries and if you love exploring mountains with sensational views then you could certainly spend some time getting lost in the area. There are also several hillside monasteries providing nice views and I cannot help but feel there is much more to the area than the standing ancient sites that we can easily see.
From here it was back north to Kampong Thom and passing by remains of an ancient site that I cannot find a name for, so I called it Balang for now. Moving on, next was the wonderous Kuk Roka, a twelfth-century “hospital chapel” that features lintels from the 7/8th century.
After that, and with the day fast disappearing, stopping at a few pagoda including Wat Kakoh which has a fascinating story, and then onto and up to Phnom Santuk, a fascinating scenic mountain area with a vast array of carvings dating to the 15th century. The area abounds with stonemasons hard at work still to this present day which is a wonderful sight.
The only guesthouse in Santuk has sadly closed, so, I headed to Kampong Thma in the dark and fortunately there is an excellent guesthouse there, Darasei Guesthouse. Modern, clean, and surprisingly quiet, and $15 for the night. Downstairs, a coffee shop where I had the best espresso I have had in Cambodia to date.
Day 4 – Kampong Thmar > Prey Chhor
Up and away early, I had to backtrack towards Santuk and visit the small brick temple with interesting but faded artwork unusually placed above the lintel, Kuk Veang, then the restored 8th century Phum Prasat, and then a weaving trail into a very scenic village and monastery located by Chinit River.
Here I’d get some good luck and bump into a friendly local at the monastery who offered to show me two nearby temples. And off we went weaving around village trails and ending up at the very interesting brick temple, West Tnaoat Chum Temple with its puzzling collection of pedestals, and then, perhaps not the largest but one of my favorite temples along this journey, Prasat Kambot (or Tnaot Chum Khang Cheung Temple). Prasat Kambot is unique, a brick temple featuring very early period art with very late era modification by the way of standing Buddhas carved into its outer walls. My lovely new friend and guide then spared her time to show me a timesaving route back out onto the highway for the next temple group in Kampong Cham Province.
Along the way south towards Kampong Cham stopping at some pagodas with the most interesting being Wat Kdei Thlok and Wat Da (not sure about that name) which features a steam locomotive on display. It also features some unusual domed bollard things, which I have no idea what they are but would see many more of them as the journey went on.
After those and near the border of Kampong Thom and Kampong Cham, was the impressive Kuk Nokor a small walled temple complex constructed of laterite where I’d meet a schoolteacher who was incredibly passionate about his nearby school which he’d later show me around. And for sure, the staff do great work there with the little they have, the school was immaculate and felt like a place where you’d actually want to go and learn. Nearby is another monastery, Wat Pong Chas, housing a collection of remains from an ancient site.
Continuing south, and not too far away, Kuk Ampil Thvear Temple, where the ancient brick temple has a colorful vihara appended to it, preserving the site in a very Buddhist kind of way. A short way to the northeast is a truly fascinating but quite ruinous site, Preah Theat Tuk Chha Temple and Toek Chha Kuk Toch. The latter is one of the several curious U-shaped buildings with a front peristyle terrace that the French would label “palaces” but they actually remain a great mystery with their function and purpose an unknown. There is also a massive lake here, that once featured a themed tourist area that seems to, at least in part, have been abandoned.
Back on the bike and across to the west to Kuk Pring Chrom where I met a goose herder, no cages out here, every day this young guy herds his large flock from the yard and across the cow paddocks to the basin by the temple. As for the goose, I guess it’s later in life that he realizes the purpose of this daily sojourn.
After that, the day is getting on and it was time to find a guesthouse, painfully, I had to head almost halfway to Kampong Cham city before finding a place. Very basic, but clean and new which was nice, and $15 for the night which felt a bit high but actually I was glad I didn’t have to ride all the way to KC knowing I have to double back again to see what would be a very special place. I can’t remember the name but it was odd.
Day 5 – Phnom Trap, Prey Chhor area > Kampong Cham city
The next day, I was out of that guesthouse at daybreak and onwards to Wat Praes Meas Temple which would be another favorite on this tour. An easy ride to get there, all sealed roads but it took a couple of circles around to find a path up the mountain and it was a rocky path that was probably better walked than taking the moto up, and later I’d find that there are actually stairs leading up to the top. A large Buddha in a fearless pose stands in front of the three brick temples that feature internal wall carvings much like Prasat Kravan in Siem Reap, except, that they are likely to be figures from the Buddhist pantheon. But, when were they carved?
Nearby in the plains below, there are three sites with remnants (laterite blocks) of ancient sites, one with a sandstone doorframe and a lintel featuring a reclining Vishnu, a site I have no idea of its name, the local who pointed me to it called it “balang” aka sanctuary. On the hill to the east of the three brick temples are the scattered remains including the standing doorframe of Srah Trap Temple which as the name suggests features a basin nearby. In the village, a monastery of the same name Wat Preis Meas featuring several remnants from an ancient site including pedestals along with ornate sema stones. There are also remains of another ancient site on the mountain but sadly the gateway to it through a monastery was closed.
Heading a short way south from Phnom Trap, there is the beautiful Kok Kvet, a single laterite temple with its remains showing beautiful form in its construction along with that featuring a quite fascinating lintel. After dropping by a couple of pagodas and a couple of sites in the farmer’s fields with little remains, it was up the small mountain to Phnom Cheung Prei Temple. While the ancient temple sits atop the small mountain peak, the area below has become a kind of Buddhist-themed area with a new temple built and numerous shrines along with stalls. The ancient temple is constructed completely of laterite with a shrine, hall, libraries, and outer wall while holding an array of lintels predating the temple we see today.
Back on the bike and now, heading back towards Kampong Cham city, stopping by Kuk Ta Prom, the stele shelter without a stele, and heading north up to the fascinating Kuk Yeay Hom, a late sandstone temple that features a large standing Buddha statue/wall sculpture and also home to an interesting inscription.
From there, back to the highway and towards Kampong Cham city stopping by another monastery with some ancient remains before getting to KC and stopping the night at Phkachouk Tep Hotel, which was simple, clean, comfortable, quiet, and great value at $12.
Day 6 – Kampong Cham City
Kampong Cham is a lovely city by the grand Mekong River and a nice place to just chill, with a riverside market and eateries, but sadly the eateries along the riverfront are geared to westerners, overpriced and very very average. The adjacent market offers much more and there are plenty of superb places to catch the amazing sunsets over the water. This lucky and relaxed city features very significant sites spanning pre-Angkorian, Angkorian, and Post-Angkorian which signals the general importance of the area.
Perhaps one of the most important temples of the Angkor era existing outside of Angkor itself, being Wat Nokor or Nokor Bachey, featuring a wondrous sandstone temple/stupa adorned with artwork, some quite unique, appended with a vihara. Also features two libraries, a galleried central enclosure with ornate gopura/entrances, and a further two enclosures with a grand entrance on the east. Sadly, at least when on the last visit, the temple grounds are poorly kept while the central sanctuary is certainly kept clean and a wonder not to be missed.
To the west of the city are Phnom Bros, Pnom Srei, and Phnom Toch featuring a host of contemporary Buddhist constructions including grand stupas, sculptures, a library, and new prasats in Angkorian style. None of the mountains/hills are high and all are easily visited.
To the north of the city along a scenic river route is Hanchey Temple, Kouk Preah Theat Temple, and Kok Lvea Temple. Hanchey is a Buddhist monastery overlooking the Mekong River from the hillside of Phnom Hanchey. The grounds of Wat Hanchey are spacious, featuring many sculptures, contemporary prasats, and there are ample places to sit and relax, admiring the view of the great river. Here, there are two important ancient sites on either side of the pagoda, a large brick temple and a small sandstone cell, both dating to Chenla era of the 7/8th century. Just to the north at the foothill of the rise, right by the riverbank, is Kouk Preah Theat, a well preserved and restored ancient wonder from the 7th century. A new road leading around the sites was under construction at the time of visiting which will surely be nice and hopefully they do some targeted clearing of trees to open up the views of the river.
Also along the river route is Kok Lvea, a small brick temple in a decaying state and seeming unloved in comparison to its northern counterparts. Google maps lists another site nearby, and I think that is a misplaced marker as there is surely nothing there. There are also numerous pagodas along this route, I checked out a few and some are quite old and interesting.
Returning to the city and a bit exhausted, I grabbed some BBQ chicken and rice from a stall in the market and stayed another night at Phkachouk Tep Hotel.
Day 7 – Tbong Khmum > Prey Veng Province > Kandal
This was a day I spent a long time on and off looking at the map trying to fathom a route around all the sites and end up at a guesthouse somewhere hopefully well before dark. There are seven sites I’d mapped out to visit, four of them all around Kandaol Chrum which is cool, but the next five or six sites were spread across Tbong Khmum, Prey Veng Province, and Kandal while the only guesthouse I could find listed was in Kandal Province near to Wat Sithor. So by the afternoon, if it did not look like I could reach Sithor before dark, then I could head back to Kampong Cham city.
Actually, the roads in Tbong Khmum are quite good and not so busy and the first stop was Banteay Prei Nokor to which a new road was under construction leading from Kandol Chrum. It was nice to see the citadel’s large moat still carrying water and the monastery at the center of it all being quite beautiful. Here I’d meet a Khmerican monk, who’d spent three years here and was soon about to head back to the USA. I always thought there was just one Khmer pagoda in the US, apparently, there are hundreds! Fascinating to chat with him and I’m very thankful for his kindness in showing me around the beautiful grounds featuring a massive reclining Buddha, gardens, and sculptures. Beside the pagoda are the two ancient brick temples recorded as Preah Theat Thom and a short walk through a palm oil plantation there are the remains of Preah Theat Toch that dates to the 7th century.
After that, back to Kandaol Chrum and west along the highway, then, taking a road north along the west side of a drainage channel (that may have existed in ancient times?) to visit the remains of Preah Theat Toc which has had a vihara appended to it and looks suspiciously like it was once one of the hospital chapels or perhaps firehouse of the Jayavarman VII era, but there is no inscription to say such and not enough remaining to really know.
Back to Kandoal Chrum and heading north from the city, again along nice roads, there was the brick sanctuary of Prei Ky Temple which has a quite nice setting and atmosphere to it. Continuing north, another brick temple, Cheung Ang Temple which is a single brick sanctuary surrounded by a moat carrying an interesting inscription that, according to the work of George Coedes, dates to 922 AD the king Jayavarman IV, noting he had seized power in the north and east while his nephews Harsavarman I and Ishanavarman II reigned in Angkor.
Continuing north, there is the circular farm plains, a remnant of an ancient city, at the center of which was a contemporary edifice that has fallen into ruin. The surrounding area is under massive development with what I guess is the start of a new city featuring a university, hospital, and quite grand roadways.
Time going well, it was back west along road 7 and then south at the city of Soung to Preah Theat Khtom Temple. Again roads are fine all the way with only the very last 4 km to the temple being dirt road but also in good condition. It’s actually a really curious place, set atop a rise in the middle of the farmlands, its a ruinous brick temple surrounded by the remains of laterite appendages, and a large inscribed stele. Here again, the monk was incredibly kind, showing me around the features.
The next stop was direct to the east but sensibly I backtracked to road 7, headed west and then south, following good roads all the way to the quite special Preah Theat Preah Srei/Wat Preah Theat. Here is another of those unknown U-shaped ancient constructions the French labeled “palaces” and a very special contemporary, but quite old, pagoda that is built atop the ancient site. Sadly, I couldn’t explore the pagoda as much as I’d like as it was closed off with restoration work in progress. So, another site that I will surely want to return to.
Time still going well thanks to surprisingly good roads, I ditched the alternate plan of heading back to Kampong Cham city and kept heading south to Prey Veng Province and to Preah Theat Prei Chong Srok Temple that carries “flying palaces” like many of the early brick temples. It also sports a tree whose roots have overtaken over the temple making it something special or something of a problem, depending on where you stand.
The day was disappearing but I had made it onto road 8 (hideous in parts with some really crazy drivers) and enough time for a quick look at Wat Sithor and Wat Meban which are both interesting sites for their roles post the Angkor era.
The guesthouse I had picked out was defunct, but fortunately, there was another but also likely defunct seemingly pending redevelopment although the young guy happily rented the room out for the night, which was basic but clean and no complaints for $8.
Day 8 & 9 – Preah Theat Baray > Phnom Penh
Leaving early before the bulldozer that was parked in front of room started up, I headed towards Wat Chonloeng and from there to Preah Theat Baray via Khnar Sa, got a little lost and was redirected by a passing monk, then found my way through several villages and around the top of the large lake marked as Boeng Veam on Google Maps. It’s all farmland out here yet the roads are not that bad. Wat Chonloeng features the standing remains of two laterite temples featuring beautiful lintels still in situ.
Preah Theat Baray is a laterite and sandstone temple that was modified in later eras to become a Theravadan Buddhist temple, the temple still carries stucco rendering on its exterior and features an arrangement of stunning lintels and frieze pieces creating its terrace.
Passing through monasteries along the way, I took the river road back to Ksach Kandal and across the river and then down into Phnom Penh. At first, I was a bit sketchy about riding a moto through Phnom Penh but honestly, it’s actually pretty relaxed outside of peak hours. In Phnom Penh I stayed at HM Grand Central, which is offering pretty attractive rates at the moment and has a superb location, is modern, quiet, and has great staff. Rates were around $30 for the night.
The next day, it was off to the Phnom Penh Museum which sadly was a bit of a letdown, the artifacts they hold are stunning, but sadly its a way outed building, labels for the items are faded or non-existent, in the courtyard things are crammed together too tightly to admire with some items blocked by packing crates left everywhere. It was very very sad to see and can only fathom that there must be huge problems within the management or culture which is a very sad situation for what should be the pinnacle of representing the history of Khmer arts. In its current state, it brings into question any attempts to repatriate items from international collections as they’d be far better off staying where they are, at least until there is a massive investment/overhaul. I truly dislike saying such harsh words but someone needs to say it.
Day 10 – Tonle Bati > Phnom Tamao > Angkor Borei > Phnom Chisor > Ta Keo City
Leaving Phnom Penh bright and early and heading out on road 2 which is a bit chaotic with roadworks taking over 90 mins to do 30 km but anyway, made it to Ta Prohm of Tonle Bati, a beautiful cruciform sandstone temple surrounded by a grand laterite galleried enclosure. A 12/13th-century site featuring an array of artwork similar to that of the same era found in Angkor while featuring some that are very unique to it. Nearby in the monastery, Yeay Pow Temple, a single sandstone shrine with art of the same era.
Just a short ride south from there is Phnom Tamao temple with its small but picturesque monastery, brick temple remains, and two stunning lintels. Minutes to the north is a walking trail that leads up to Phnom Thma Doh and its brick temple which is fascinating as it is one of the unique sites housing a natural linga. There are two more monasteries/themed Buddhist areas nearby too. To the south, there is a zoo, but I’ll leave that for another day as this will be another time-pressured leg to make it to the next known guesthouse.
Next stop was Angkor Borei which is easily reached by moto on comfortable sealed roads leading all the way to Phnom Da and Ashram Moha Russei. Phnom Da is a gigantic brick wonder sitting atop a small mountain that features several caves used as hermitages. Nearby to that, on the adjacent rise, is the wonderous Ashram Moha Russei, an ancient cell style temple in a temple that was restored in the French era.
Sadly the area is not well kept, at least when I visited, litter abounds. Sadly the museum at Angkor Borei was closed, I guess also due to the lack of visitors. From there, back north to Prey Lvea and then west to Phnom Chisor along nice sealed roads.
You can walk up to the top of Phnom Chisor or ride up a rocky dirt trail that leads up from the southern side near the school and enjoy some views along the way. Here I met an old guide from Siem Reap who found a new job and is working nearby doing stock and currency trading of all things. Small world. On the western side of the temple is a contemporary monastery and down the eastern side of the temple are two interesting gopura easily reached by side roads.
Back on the bike and continuing east, a quick stop at Neang Khmau temple and then south down to Takeo city, staying the night at Alice Villa which is more than fine for $15 a night.
Day 11 – Wat Baray > Kirivong city > Kep
Away at daybreak, and heading northeast from Takeo city to its outskirts and the partially standing brick temple at Wat Baray after which it was onto Kirivong city, again stopping at any monastery that looked half-interesting. On a side note, at Kirivong they have started construction of a large island park called Samdech Vibol Panha Sok An Kirivong Culture Park which for tourism could tie in well to the temples up on the mountain range. There are two monasteries in the city and stupidly I didn’t go to either, and as I’d find out later, they both house ancient remains. Anyway, the star attractions are up on top of the mountain range.
The first climb was an easy staircase up the mountain and across a plateau with spectacular views and a modern statue of Avalokiteshvara leading to the brick temple Ta Nean East Temple and then a small monastery with several sculptures and then a slightly sketchy, but not long, trail up a steep rocky path to Kampoul Ta Non Temple which features the partially standing remains of a brick temple along with superb views across the mountain peaks.
The next temples are across the range on the next mountain peak, so it’s back down the mountain, back on the bike and fortunately, I can ride most of the way up to these. The trail up to Preah Ko and Phnom Bayang is a dirt trail that becomes a concreted path at the very base of the mountain and it then winds its way around and up taking 20-30 min to reach the small brick temple of Preah Ko and then a few more minutes to the base of Phnom Bayang Temple where, on foot, it’s a steep climb up the ancient staircase to another of my favorite temple from this tour. Phnom Bayang is a true wonder, a highly ornate ancient brick temple built housing a smaller temple inside. It’s fascinating, then, there are amazing views it offers across the mountain ranges and down to the fields below.
From there, it’s back down and good roads through the villages with stunning vistas of other mountains to reach Wat Kampaeng and its ancient brick temple surrounded by stupas behind the pagoda, and then it was east and north and into Kampot Province and the back roads here are not so great. Anyway I eventually made it to Angkor Chey and Wat Prasat Temple, not much left but it has a seemingly unique design albeit a basic one.
From there, back onto sealed roads, road 31, and down to the first of Kampot’s cave temples, Phnom Khyang. After returning to Siem Reap I’d realise that I’d missed one of the cave temples, Phnom Totong, so, there’s something for next time. Phnom Khyang is easy to reach, located just behind a school and a short set of stairs up to the cave for which you’ll need a torch, I didn’t have one so my photos are not so great, making another reason to return.
After that, the daylight is fading and it was time to find a guesthouse in Kampot and I ended up staying at Kep Garden Bungalows which were clean and quiet for $15.
Day 12 – Kep > Kampot
There is a new road leading around Kep now and some new shops have opened and the beach looks pretty good, to be honest. After a stroll along that it’s off to Phnom Kbal Romeas (or the Climbodia site) which is a stunning cave featuring the remains of what may have been another cave temple of which only some bricks remain with some curious features seen up high. The dirt road leading here is pretty rough and it’s just as rough heading north to Phnom Chhngok, but, more than worth the few bumps as this is the highlight of the cave temples and not to be missed.
After that, backtracked and then into Kampot and I wasted an hour looking for remains of an ancient temple site and gave up as the area no one in the area knew anything of it. From that, it was onwards and up to the top of Phnom Bokor. This has to be one of the most enjoyable rides around (and drives too I guess). The beautiful new road weaves perfectly up the mountain taking around 40-50 min to the top. It started to rain on the way up which wasn’t so much fun but by the time I’d reached the old French Church it all started to clear giving me a chance to grab some photos and enjoy the views from here and from the pagoda. The old Bokor Station casino/Bokor Palace is restored and now supposedly a luxury hotel, but seems to have become derelict again with the sign falling down at least. I am sure if that’s true it won’t be staying that way as big money is getting poured into the area. The carpark to the new Sangkum casino was empty and it looked quite neglected too. Regardless, the coolest features here are the two pagodas, the church, the Chinese temple, the stunning views, the giant Buddha, and the ruins of the Black Palace. There are natural attractions too, including a waterfall but it’s the wrong time of year for that one.
So, exhausted and the day over, it’s time to find a guesthouse again and that’s not too hard here, I ended up at Arina Boutique Kampot which was $20 and excellent. Interestingly, Kampot was quite busy with foreigners, talking to the owner he said the area has survived the downturn quite well, even adding new guesthouses.
Day 13 – Kampot > Phnom Srouch > Phnom Penh
Up early again and back on the bike along road 3, then road 41, then west through the village of Chek which has superb views across the plains to the mountain range which I think is Phnom Srey and Phnom Srong, then reaching road 4.
From road 4, I took a dirt trail that looked like it would lead to Phnom Kaek, but then I struck a military base gate that was open, so. Only 500 m in and I could hear a lady screaming in the distance which made me stop and look around and a little way off to the right I could see the gun turret of tank poking out from beneath a tarp and to the right of that, another tank, and another tank. Ok, bye-bye. Back to road 4 and just a little further north another military base and this one had somebody on the gate who put me on the right track to the temple leading between the two bases. Once at the mountain base, the trail up to the temple isn’t marked and the first attempt up was a fail so then I moved further north and found something that looked like a trail up and success. There’s not much left of Phnom Kaek Pong Temple, only partially standing on two sides but it’s still interesting, featuring vertical embossments for a “palace” carving but never completed.
After that, it was back onto road 4 and towards Phnom Penh. I’ve concluded that the outskirts of PP are a crazy place to ride a moto, drivers have this bizarre belief that they can overtake at any time, and after pulling out and beginning the overtake, if they see someone coming, simply flash their headlights to dispel of any oncoming concern. The magic power of the headlight.
From road 4, and so glad to get off it, heading south at Thnal Totueng, then east and across to the village of Trapeang Samret where the pagoda has an interesting shrine hiding among its funerary stupas. Recorded as Wat Prasat, it was visited in the mid-1930s by Robert Dalet who noted the restoration by monks including plastering and adding a stupa/pyramid style roof to the ancient temple. Some ancient remnants can still be seen and it’s another curious site that now has a long history over many eras.
After that, into Phnom Penh again and stayed once again at HM Grand Central Hotel.
Day 14 – Phnom Penh
In Phnom Penh, it was some time to relax and let a foot sprain heal, and enjoy a bit of Chinese New Year and a couple of sights. A lot of PP monasteries plus the Royal Palace etc. were closed still closed at this time.
Day 15 – Phnom Penh > Phnom Baset > Udong/Longvek
It’s an easy ride to Phnom Baset, and not so many crazy drivers, and the area features a plethora of pagodas clustered around and ontop of a series of small mountains. Two monastery, Wat Phnom Reap and Wat Sowann Theamreach feature large Angkor-era styled prasat replicas which are very cool but seemingly unfinished projects. On the hilltops, there are several pagodas and shrines to explore including Phnom Baset South and the two pagodas nearby while the highlight is on the north side being the ancient 7th-century temple site, Srey Kup Leak.
From Phnom Baset it was an easy ride north to Oudong and then west to Wat Phnom Preah Theat which is a unique ancient temple appended to a giant rock monolith.
From there it’s back to Oudong to explore the famed and historic mountain range and its beautiful stupas. Around Phnom Oudong, there is an array of monasteries surrounding the mountain too, some containing ancient relics and many with ornate sema stones etc. sadly the one with the giant Buddha was closed to visitors at this time. Across the mountain range there are the grand stupas, some funerary, some holding relics, along with numerous shrines and Wat Arthaross.
There are several guesthouses along road 5 in Oudong and I ended up choosing Chan Chao guesthouse which was basic, clean and $13.
Day 16 – Longvek > Pursat
Longvek, of course, is another important area in Cambodia’s history and for this tour a stop at several monasteries with the highlight being Wat Tralaeng Kaeng after which it was off to Kampong Chhnang and Boribor. Road 5 along this stretch is under reconstruction and it will be amazing when it’s finished, but at the moment, it’s zero fun on a moto. Anyways, fortunately, there is a very special temple along the way.
Wat Kampong Preah features three ancient temples, two of which are standing and one of those is a stunning remnant of craftmanship of the ancient era. It’s a site that captivated early French researchers in the 1900s and continues to do so to anyone lucky enough to make it out this way.
Onwards from there to Pursat, and more intense roadworks, a duel with a van driver who for some reason was hellbent on forcing me into a guard rail, with two near successful attempts until one his of passengers spoke out. Small motos are really unwelcome on certain highways but perhaps just something rotten within the passenger transport industry culture. Oddly, truck drivers were the exact opposite and surprisingly easy to share the road with. Anyway, when the road 5 upgrade is finished I am sure it’s going to be a quite wonderful area to explore further as there are a few ancient sites in the area.
Reaching Pursat I stayed at the Pursat Riverside Hotel which is quite nice and the price I cannot remember exactly, but $25-30. Maybe $30 as it included a buffet breakfast where the attentive staff were determined that I was completely stuffed before leaving! Around Purast there are several cool shrines and pagodas including a boat, the Sampov Meas housing Preah Ang Cho Sen temple, Phnom Borvong which has an unusual shrine but sadly closed and I could only get a picture from the gate with the sun beaming straight into the camera, the new and quite special Wat Mony Ratanaream, and of course the Oknha Klaeng Meung Shrine.
Day 17 – Pursat > Battambang
Roda 5 from Pursat to BB is a little better than the previous day, thankfully, but still a work in progress. Along the way, the Bakan Temple, an ancient site modified through later eras.
A little to the further east and quite happily off the road 5 and onto village roads, is Don An Temple, an ancient 12-13th century site replaced by a pagoda with the temple ruins fashioned into a chedi/stupa.
Back onto road 5 and can finally start to see what the new road will look like. It will be nice when it’s all done. Along the way to BB there are several interesting pagodas with the highlight being Wat Soriyam
Reaching Battambang, I stayed at the Sky Palace Boutique which was $16, clean, quiet, and comfortable.
Day 18, 19, 20 – Battambang
By this point I was really exhausted, so far things had been pretty fast-paced with lots of on-the-fly planning so, BB was a great place to just stop and chill a bit. I lived in BB for some time so it was a chance to revisit some sites and get some updated photos from the quite special Basaet Temple and the ancient temple ruins nearby at Wat Samdach, Snoeng West and Snoeng East, Wat Phnom Sampov, the cave at Wat Neang Romsay Sak, the stupas and old pagoda at Wat Samrong Knong, Phnom Banan, Wat Ek Phnom and several pagodas.
Day 21 – Battambang > Mongkol Borei > Srah Kandal > Svay Chek > Thma Pouk
Leaving BB and heading north to Mongkol Borey where there are several pagodas atop the small mountain peaks on either side of road 5, some holding remnants of ancient sites.
Perhaps the most interesting site is the ancient cave that’s located in a mountain that is slowly disappearing, Phnom Thom once held an inscribed stele that is believed to be a Shaivate hermitage dating to the 10th century.
Continuing north, perhaps the quirkiest pagoda to be found, still under construction, the cheery monk and his assistant are hard-working there is no doubt. The monk told me the name and somewhere along the way, it fell out of my scrambled heat-soaked brain…
After that, it’s north to Sisophon and east along road 6 for a short way and then north up a goat road to a very very special monastery, Prasat Srah Kandal that has connections back to Sri Lanka via the present-day abbot who studied there. Still a work in progress but it will doubt be something to behold when completed.
Heading west from Prasat Srah Kandal and then north to Pheas Temple, the remains of three sandstone temples on a common platform, only one tower remains partially standing and it features fascinating and unique artwork. I couldn’t help but think what a great candidate for restoration this temple would be.
At this point, I could have returned to Siem Reap but decided to loop around to Samrong and visit some sites I missed from a previous tour of the northwest. So, from there it’s west to Svay Chek and then south and across the fields to Sdok Kak Temple where the wall remains partially standing and not much else. Continuing on stopping by several pagodas with the most interesting being Wat Thma Pouk which houses a collection of ancient temple remains.
Fortunately, there’s a guesthouse in Thma Pouk, which was basic, clean, and quiet for $15 (from memory).
Day 22 – Thma Pouk > Kouk Mon > Pong Tuk > Ta Krabei > Samrong
Heading west from Thma Pouk back to Kok Romiet (Sra Ngue) where I missed a site from the last tour as the fields were flooded, this time, OK. I was keen to see this temple as there are no photos of it to be found, plus, the nearby monastery houses a spectacular crown piece which is suggested to come from a temple much further away but, I wondered, with this temple so close could it have come from here? Hidden in away in a cluster of trees in the fields north of the school, Kok Romiet Temple is a small brick temple, almost completely standing with an unusual double doorframe. After seeing it, I doubt that the crown piece could have come from here. Further research into French notes from the 1900s also gave no indication of there being anything more than what we see today. A local pointed to another temple way off to the east which would swallow up some time trying to find, but found it eventually with some more help, and have no idea of its IK# or record at this time, it’s the remains of a square laterite structure with sandstone doorframe. Long sandy trails would become a theme for the day.
Back to road 56 and north past Banteay Chhmar, stopping by pagodas along the way with Wat Prasat Toek Chum holding a collection of interesting remains. Reaching Kouk Mon and heading north, having recently visited Ta Muen Thom, I was heading to Ta Krabei and Prasat Khna keeping in mind that the next guesthouse is some way away in Samrong. BUT, just to the west, there’s a cluster of sites. Sometimes curiosity is a curse.
The road heading west from Trapeang Smach to Pong Tuk is a dirt road in great condition but heading south from that road to Kuk Temple is not so much fun. I’d lose hours here, lost on deep sandy Kubota tractor trails where a moto like this has no place, it’s also physically and mentally exhausting especially after so many days of traveling. Long story short, I got to Kuk Temple, it was blazing hot and in the bright sun struggled to get a good photo of its features, but regardless, a welcomed sight. There is another site nearby of which nothing remains and on the way out found a much easier way to get there, ahhh.
Nearby and much easier to find was Pong Toek Temple in the heart of the village and with locals pointing the way, Prasat Top which is oddly marked by the early French, and in other places as ruined, but clearly it is not. Locals pointed to there being other remains nearby to here, and of course, there are sites a little further east at Banteay Ampil but I was way over time.
With time slipping away and I chose to keep on going to Ta Krabey at least. Back to the sealed road that heads north to Ta Muen Thom and the border, I kept on going and then headed east along the beautiful border highway, then at the roundabout taking the road to Thma Duan and then turning west, into the army barracks which is gated while temple visitors are free to go through in peaceful times. A quick search online will show there’s quite a bit of history here regarding times when things were not so peaceful. The long concrete road that winds its way along the side of the mountain range is easygoing and offers great views on the way up to Ta Krabey. At the base, there is a short flight of stairs leading up to the site which has plenty of friendly military personal wandering about while the temple itself is a sandstone giant, reminiscent of the scale of Banteay Toap‘s towers. It was the wrong time of day to be here and hard to photograph due the sun (around 3.30 by now), try a morning run if you go or maybe very late afternoon.
Not enough time left in the day for Prasat Khna so I headed south on a dirt road in the direction of Samrong, stopping a couple of easy ancient sites near the road with not much remaining and then Samrong city, a BBQ stall, and collapse at Choranai Guesthouse. I’ve stayed here before and it’s clean, modern, quiet, with friendly staff and $15.
Day 23 – Samrong city
The next morning, back on the bike and south from Samrong along nice sealed village roads to the brick temple, Prasat Chey Kbo which retains some artwork that of late brick temples and whose central tower has an interesting internal design. I had to return here the next morning to get photos of the nearby laterite “firehouse”, Ampil Temple.
After Chey Kbo, it was back to Samrong city and north to Lbeuk Smaoch Temple which has recently been cleared and albeit quite ruinous, its a very charming site when combined with its surroundings. The site is signposted and well known, to locals at least, and has a nice dirt road leading to the site featuring the sprawling remains of a trio of ornate sandstone temples, with libraries and an outer enclosure wall.
After that, a look around some local pagodas and another night at Choranai Guesthouse.
Day 24 – Samrong > Srei Snam > Siem Reap
In the morning I head south via Ampil temple to get some better photos and by pure chance, past remains of a temple located by the road, I don’t know the name of it yet. The roads are surprisingly good in the area, some sealed, some dirt, then it was back onto road 68 to Srei Snam.
In Srei Snam, I was keen to see the state leading to Kok Mon Temple, I have tried before to reach this site and failed because it was flooded, and surely at this time of year, it would be passable. First, it was off to Preah Khset Temple, and what a beautiful village this is, farmlands with small hills and large mountains on the horizon, and a massive lake. I have no idea at this point as to whether the lake/baray is man-made or natural but the temple seems so neatly positioned on a rise immediately west of the water’s edge, so there is at least an ancient relationship between the two. Preah Khset Temple is a wonder to explore featuring remains of three brick temples with library buildings, surrounded by an outer laterite enclosure.
It really is a beautiful rural village to ride around and easy to do so, along the way to the next temple there was a cool monastery where the monks are using laterite they have excavated (I hope) to build a balustrade.
Next was Kbal Bei Temple, I thought it was but it’s not yet cleared, so a few photos and leave that one until it’s ready for visitors. It’s another brick temple group surrounded by an outer laterite enclosure wall. As cool as it may be to explore lost “Jungle Temples”, it’s important not to disturb them, plus they possess an array of hidden dangers including concealed excavation pits, endless trip hazards, and snakes are not uncommon. Do consider it for a moment, if you do get fanged while trudging through the overgrowth, there’s little chance of reaching Seim Reap Referral Hospital in time. Better to wait till it’s cleared by authorities.
After that, it’s on to Kok Mon temple and thankfully the roads are all dry, but, hammered into deep sand by farm tractors making it a real slog to get around. Eventually, I found my way into the site, only after meeting a wandering farmer and it was worth all the effort. Kok Mon is an extremely well-preserved laterite firehouse with sandstone features seemingly recycled from another temple.
There are two other temples and an ancient bridge near here according to Brugiers records, but, my day is done, energy is all spent, and it’s time to get back to Siem Reap. So after an easy ride back to Kralanh, then back to home base in Siem Reap.