Ta Lei Temple (Varin, Siem Reap)

Also recorded under many names inc. Trapeang Phtol and Chankiry Temple, its is the partially standing remains of a large temple site that featured enclosure wall with gopura with a square central shrine. The site is quite interesting, for several reasons including featuring a mixed of brick, sandstone and laterite in its construction and also for what appears to be an incredibly elaborate entrance with multiple gopura and peristyle.

I’ll try to describe the layout which will surely become more clear when the site is cleared of overgrowth once more. From the east, the hill providing rise to the site is preceded by a large basin and a smaller basin that is lined with stepped laterite. Atop the rise, a bollarded entrance leading to an grand entry gopura, followed by a peristyle that may have connected with another gopura, and then, the main enclosure with a large gopura containing the central tower, plus apparent remains of the other towers, and a library building in the southeast corner. Gopuras exist on the west, south and north sides of the enclosure, but appear to be false gopura.

The square central shrine opens to the east and has/had a short forebody, sandstone false doors and doorframes, a laterite inner with brick also seen in places. A doorjamb here apparently features an inscription (registered under K. 900 but I did not see it).

The walls, library, and gopura are constructed completely of laterite excepting the sandstone door and window frames, pillars, and lintels plus, and quite unusually, the roofs of the gopura and central shrine were formed in brick.

At least three lintels can be seen around the site, and there may be more overturned in the overgrowth. On the northern side of the site, a large stele can be seen albeit without inscription unless there is one hiding on the turned down side.

It was heavily overgrown inside the enclosure on the most recent visit (06/22) but still a joy to visit. The site is easy to reach with nice new roads connecting Varin through to Srey Noy.

Basin and stele

Gopura

Central Shrine and Library

Lintels and other remnants

History

Little research (to my knowledge) has been carried out at the site, it was visited by Garnier in the late 1800s, Lajonquiere in the early 1900s, Marchal, Glaize and Dupont visited the site sometime around 1937 noting an inscription on a doorframe. There are some notes by Glaize (on Ta Lei) published where he speculated on the era of the site, possibly 10th century according to some of the characters in the lintels while Dupont had suggested 11th c. He notes there being three prasats with nothing visible bar the door frames emerging from the shrub.

Bruno/Dagens commented on the site noting Garniers’ visit in the late 1800s adding that Pr. Trapeang Phtol is Pr. Ta lei which is how it is recorded today, plus providing the only old images of the site as seen below. The second lintel pictured below (B&D noted as from Ta Lei) matches one seen at the site today.

References

• Les sites archéologiques de la région du Bhnaṃ Gūlen (Phnom Kulen), 1973
• Journaux de fouilles, Tome 13, Glaize, 1936

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap - Contact via [email protected] - more..