Preah Theat Baray

Perhaps originally a group of three temples, what we see today is an ancient temple constructed of sandstone and laterite that is fronted by a terrace created from temple remains including lintels and plinths.

The remaining temple is square and constructed of laterite with sandstone pilasters, doorframes, false doors, and base molding. Unusually, the temple opens on two sides, the opening to the east with a door slightly larger than the opening on the west which was closed with bricks at some time later in its life. Over the laterite walls, you can see rendering still existing in places but I do not know if that’s original to the site noting that while researchers date the site to the 11th century based on artwork, it was likely modified in later eras when it converted to become a Theravada Buddhist temple.

Lintels and pediments arranged around the site – The lintels feature Garudas surrounded by garland, reclining Vishnu on his couch Anantasayin note the crocodiles at the very bottom, a Churning of the Sea of Milk scene, lintel with dancing character at the center, another with a four-armed dancing character that appears unfinished, and finally a lintel depicting a battle between the monkeys, Bailin and Sugriva.

Pediment remains, door column, corner pieces, and other artifacts

Getting to Preah Theat Baray is not as difficult as it may look, by car or moto, coming from Phnom Penh, you can cross the river at Ksach Kandal then follow the river along the narrow but scenic sealed road to Praek Dambouk and then a dirt road, bumpy in places, to Preah Theat Baray. Alternatively, I believe you can come from Kampong Cham and cross the river by ferry. On the way there I took a route from Preah Vihear Sour to Khnar Sa, then dirt road that leads around the very top of the baray following an irrigation channel that led into the monastery there. Once in the village area, it’s a bit of a maze but you should be able to find your way to the east entrance which has the best access. In the rainy season, I am not sure how the access is.

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap. Rodney Charles L'Huillier has spent over seven years in Cambodia and is the author of Ancient Cambodia (2024) and Essential Siem Reap (2017, 2019). Contact via [email protected] - more..