Prasat Phnom Totong

Also known as Phnom Totoeng Temple, Located on the side of a giant rock massif, within a cave, is a small but very ancient brick temple. The site is located at the eastern end of the mountain, or massif, and on its northern side. At the opposite end is a large cement factory.

There is a pagoda under restoration (as of 08/22) and a couple of ancillary buildings, and also a large basin. Near those buildings, a short flight of stairs leads up the side of the mountain, offering spectacular views of adjacent massifs, and to the opening of the cave. After entering you can immediatley see the temple and I sugggest taking a floodlight and tripod if you want to get reasobale photos, a phone torch is ample to navigate with.

The ancient temple, rectangular and opening to the west, has a body of laterite with its upper sections and roof formed in brick through which a stalegtite apprears that likely dripped water onto a linga and the onto the drain and spout that leads through the wall of the temple (and still in situ). It also feaures a sandstone doorframe and once hand door columns supporting a decorated lintel which is still on-site, resting near the temple opening.

The mountain itself was recorded in French notes under the name Kuhear Preah Long or Kuha Kbal Botum, and during explorations in the early 1900s an ancient stele was found here featuring an inscription registered under K. 45 attributed to King Yasovarman with a date of the late 9th century. Another stele with an inscription registered under K. 44 was found at a nearby cave, invoking Shiva, and praising King Jayavarman I, giving a date of the 7th century and noting goods allocated to ascetics. It also notes a god Utpannecvara, the name of the area, Cnar, which was created during the reign of Raudravarman that George Coedes speculates to be King Raudravarman of Funan (514-545 A. D.).

Getting there – Prasat Phnom Totong is located 124km from Phnom Penh, 40km from Kep and around 60km from Kampot city. From Road 31, take the turnoff at Banteay Meas and follow the sealed road until you reach the foot of the mountain, take the road north (now a dirt trail) around the mountain and to the temple site on the north side. Just one km to the north is Wat Phnom Touch (Khmer: វត្តភ្នំតូច), also featuring another cave to explore.

Not too far away are the other cave sites including Kampong Trach, Phnom Kbal Romeas, Phnom Sorsia, Phnom Khyang Temple, and Phnom Chhngok Temple and other attractions in Kep and Kampot.

References

• Inscriptions Du Cambodge, George Coedes VII
• BEFEO Chronique de l’année 1937

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap. Rodney Charles L'Huillier has spent over seven years in Cambodia and is the author of Ancient Cambodia (2024) and Essential Siem Reap (2017, 2019). Contact via [email protected] - more..