Angkor Thom North Gate

Angkor Thom North Gate, or Dei Chhnang Gate, is one of the five gates (gopura) for entering Angkor Thom. It is similar to the other gates featuring the massive gopura with monumental smiling faces at each cardinal point.

As per the other gates, South Gate (Thvear Tonle Om), West Gate (Thvear Ta Kav), Victory Gate (Thvear Chey), and East Gate (Gate of the Dead or Thvear Khnoch), the site features a grand causeway crossing the moat featuring a Naga balustrade with 54 demons (Asura) on one side and 54 gods (Devas) on the other, both pulling on a giant Naga serpent leading to the grand entrance gate.

The tri-headed elephant (Airvata) flanks either side of the doorway, pulling up lotus from the waters below with their trunks, and in places, you can see remnants of the artwork surrounding them. Above the elephants are three figures, a male flanked by two devas likely a depiction of the god Indra holding the sacred Vajra and flanked by two divinities. Rising above them is a row of devata in prayer above which are the four massive and beautifully carved faces, pointing in each direction. In between the faces are singular devata with long flowing locks of hair imitating the beautiful native vines of the region.

The four gigantic smiling faces feature a diadem, a diamond shape on their forehead, and an ornate crown. Atop the four faces, are three towering prasats, the central tower being the tallest rising up with three false levels with false doors on each side and seemingly ornate lintels and pediments before reaching its lotus flower crown and spire.

See South Gate (Thvear Tonle Om) for an illustrated restitution of the gates and a little more detail on points generic to all the gates.

Unique Features

Like the other gates, it has spurs or additional laterite chambers constructed to the left and right of the entranceway and the one on the right (north side) here is well preserved in part. These chambers are somewhat of a mystery.

Behind the elephant trunks, on the northwest side of the entrance, you can find a unique carving of a double-cobra among lotus, with a Hamsa and further above a figure in prayer emerging from a lotus bud. Also, the three divinities, seated above the elephants, are seemingly unique from each other, noting what the female figures are holding and headdress at least. Who are the figures? As alluded to earlier, Indra flanked by devata, atop his mount, Airvata, although some like to speculate that it is a representation of the king and his two wives.

Another unique point is that it is no longer a causeway crossing the moat, in recent times one section had culverts added thus converting into a bridge to allow the flow of water between the moat of the east and west.

Explore More

Climbing up the wall from the inside on either side allows you to take great photos of the faces and the beautiful trees that have dramatically overtaken the wall. You can also walk along the top of the wall to Prasat Chrung at the northeast corner of the wall or Prasat Chrung at the northwest corner which takes around 20-30 minutes to walk to either one.

Rodney Charles LHuillier

Living in Asia for over a decade and now residing in beautiful Siem Reap. Rodney Charles L'Huillier has spent over seven years in Cambodia and is the author of Ancient Cambodia (2024) and Essential Siem Reap (2017, 2019). Contact via [email protected] - more..